Unloved starts at a brief overhanging section, then travels through a 30' dihedral followed by three bolts through then a very steep final section. The entire route overhangs by at least 15'.
Free attempts have been made with a suggested minimum grade of .12a. The project is open.
Unloved is on Matt's Wall, on the Northwest Buttress of Turtle Rock. To the right of Unloved by about 10' is a broken face to a dirty chimney. To the left is a 10c bolted line called Matter Facts.
A double set of finger-sized down to a purple Mastercam and two hooks, at least one of which must be designed to clear a slight bulge.
Brian takes a variation at the start of Unloved on...
Sussing out the beginning of the crux.
Apr 24, 2012
Be careful of loose rock on this one, and bring a wrench and a leash to tighten all bolts before attempting to lead.
|By Doug Ranck|
Apr 26, 2012
Hi Adam, looking at this wall closer, it is called Matt's Wall after Matt Bechelhymer (sp) who did all of the crack climbs but probably not the overhanging section at the top that you are doing (in the mid to late '80s). The climb to the left is a 10c called Matter Facts which is technically listed in the guide book as being on the NW Buttress of Turtle Rock. The next climb down to the left is called, Legomyeago at 11a.
It is great to see some interest in this wall as it has potential.
Climb hard and have fun.
Mar 27, 2014
Entire route climbed free as of 3/25/14. Matt Cochran and Dylan Reed. "Soft Steel", 5.12a. We found a pre-placed ballnut above the third bolt.