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Southern Crags
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Cold Rush T 
Unlikely Manicure T 

Unlikely Manicure 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Marcy, Geir & Doso
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Marcy on Jan 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Unlikely Manicure follows the center crack. Start ...

Description 

Start in a short left facing corner in the center of the face. Follow the vertical crack until it runs out. Continue up to a nice ledge, placing gear in horizontals. From the ledge, move right and continue up the face for another 12 feet to the summit. Belay from 2 bolts on the summit.

Rappel the route from to bolts with quicklinks and leave it carabiners that are located down and (climber's) left from the summit belay bolts.

This is a nice trad line with good rock that protects well. It faces west and gets a good amount of sun from late morning through early evening.


Location 

See overview topo


Protection 

Doubles to 2"



Photos of Unlikely Manicure Slideshow Add Photo
Marcy's unlikely manicure
Marcy's unlikely manicure
Marcy on the FA
Marcy on the FA
Comments on Unlikely Manicure Add Comment
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By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jan 3, 2010

I'm torn between 2 and 3 stars for this route. For the grade, it has some really fun climbing. The rock is very good, it protects well, and has a great summit. I wouldn't want someone to pass this up because it only has 2 stars, yet I can't seem to put in the same group as some of 3 star routes in the area. Not quite sure why this is...but regardless, if you are looking for moderate trad in the area, I strongly recommend this one to you. Someday the consensus will figure out how many stars it is worthy of :)

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

ditto marcy's comment. the name for this climb comes from a chance incident that removed part of a fingernail during the FA. (photo to follow). it's helpful to step right from the last ledge to the top to keep the climb on grade.