Start in a short left facing corner in the center of the face. Follow the vertical crack until it runs out. Continue up to a nice ledge, placing gear in horizontals. From the ledge, move right and continue up the face for another 12 feet to the summit. Belay from 2 bolts on the summit.
Rappel the route from to bolts with quicklinks and leave it carabiners that are located down and (climber's) left from the summit belay bolts.
This is a nice trad line with good rock that protects well. It faces west and gets a good amount of sun from late morning through early evening.
See overview topo
Doubles to 2"
Marcy's unlikely manicure
Marcy on the FA
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jan 3, 2010
I'm torn between 2 and 3 stars for this route. For the grade, it has some really fun climbing. The rock is very good, it protects well, and has a great summit. I wouldn't want someone to pass this up because it only has 2 stars, yet I can't seem to put in the same group as some of 3 star routes in the area. Not quite sure why this is...but regardless, if you are looking for moderate trad in the area, I strongly recommend this one to you. Someday the consensus will figure out how many stars it is worthy of :)
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ditto marcy's comment. the name for this climb comes from a chance incident that removed part of a fingernail during the FA. (photo to follow). it's helpful to step right from the last ledge to the top to keep the climb on grade.