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 ADVANCED
The Coliseum
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gladiator T 
Handcrack-a-rete T 
Hollow Man T,S 
Ionic Column T,S 
Lion's Face, The T 
Lost in Time T,S 
Planetary Pull T 
Unleash The Lions T 
Vrainavore T 
Wrinkle in Time T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unleash The Lions 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: P1 Bob Jasperson. P2 Gillett, Sullivan, and Crawford, 2002
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,198
Submitted By: J1. on Oct 5, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Unleash The Lions.

Description 

Pitch 1 - climb a short crack into the right-facing flake/dihederal, when it fades angle right toward the chains above the tree. 70 feet, 5.6.

Pitch 2 - move left into a nice crack and climb it, going around the roof above on the right. Continue with discontinous cracks and flakes and belay behind a large boulder. 60 feet, 5.7.

Downclimb/walkoff to the SE.


Location 

Follow the approach description for the Coliseum.

This route is to the left and kind of behind the Ionic Column route.


Protection 

SR, chains at the end of P1, no anchors at the top.



Photos of Unleash The Lions Slideshow Add Photo
Brenda on Unleash the Lions.
Brenda on Unleash the Lions.
Following on Unleash the Lions P1.
BETA PHOTO: Following on Unleash the Lions P1.
Comments on Unleash The Lions Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The walkoff from the end of the 2nd pitch looks improbable, but apparently isn't that bad. When I did the route, I ended up going another 50 feet up an arete to a chossy ledge and traversed left to a tree to rap. This completely sucked. Don't do it. If you have any qualms about bushy, exposed downclimbs, you'll probably want to rap off after the first pitch.

By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lots of loose rock just past the roof moves. Careful.

By goatboywonder
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route! Pitch 2 was pretty cool, but check your holds before yarding too hard. Too bad the walk off sucks so badly. I would be willing to install a bolted rap anchor at the top if I can get a blessing from the FAs.

By Bernard Gillett
May 6, 2012

GBW: I've got no problem with you adding a rappel station at the end of pitch 2 if you can find a good location. I'm certain the other people involved in the 1st ascent wouldn't mind, either. You might want to budget some time clearing loose rock from the 2nd pitch to make sure pulling down the rope won't also pull down a bunch of rock.

By Dankasaurus
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a really fun 5.7, thanks to Bernard Gillett and Co for putting it up. Do the "second" pitch...it's great (I led as one pitch). A rap station up high would really improve the route and reduce the erosion in the walk off gully.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2012

Led this today, fun! Only did P1 since there are no rap anchors on P2.

By Shameless Shaemus
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Warm up the early season "trad head" on this fun run, good gear and good moves on P2.