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Opposite Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abstinence S,TR 
Archaic Revival S 
Baby Food S,TR 
Chastity Belt S,TR 
Exit ArÍte Right S,TR 
Gateway Drug S 
Peach Fuzz S 
project groove S 
shred or dead S 
Terrys Angels S 
Wintu Wall S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Bernard?
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: NorCalNomad on Dec 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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peach fuzz..


Route to the right of Baby Food, obvious chains anchor at the top. Starts either on the rock resting against the wall, or for added difficulty, just down and to the right of it. Little mossy/chossy at first..feel free to clean as you go! No lead bolts yet, top rope only.


Opposite the Main Wall


4 bolts and chains

Photos of Abstinence Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the crux moves just before the anchor
Pulling the crux moves just before the anchor

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By Paul Bernard
From: Chester, CA
Jan 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Just added 4 bolts to this route. Still clocks in at about 5.9 with the crux getting to and past the first bolt. A little sporty for those not comfortable at the grade. We named it "Abstinence." :)
By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 18, 2014

Updated thanks Paul.
By Superdavinit
Aug 8, 2015

Led this today. Fun little balance sport route. Very good warm up stuff for the main wall or beginning leaders. Pretty straightforward holds and feet.
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Sep 15, 2015

Its possible to finish at the new anchors up and R for the full 5.9 tick!
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