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Black Gold 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: JP Griffith on Jun 6, 2014  with updates from Alan Prehmus and 3 more

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BETA PHOTO: Black Gold, 400 feet, nothing harder than 5.7.
The...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a short and easy pitch to the left of Playin' Hooky. This route traverses left from the start of Playin' Hooky to the first bolt, then go straight up through a mini-roof that is surprisingly easy.

Per Alan Prehmus: start on the 4 foot ledge overhanging the creek, 30 feet below and upstream of the start of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky. It's the second route left of Solid Gold.

The first pitch climbs up and left, then follows some small left-facing corners. The roof can be finessed by using the left wall of the corner. Belay above the roof on 2 bolts.

The second pitch passes a second black overhang to climber's left. Move back right above the overhang. Continue up the bolt line. Staying left of the bolts is easier. For more challenge, climb to the right of the bolts until the last two bolts under the final bulge. Avoid the two huge boulders on the right here as they may not be attached. Pull through the bulge to the belay.

The third pitch has a friction move below the second bolt but is mostly easier. Belay on the grassy 2 x 6 foot ledge on another pair of bolts. Access to the upper pitches including Playin' Hooky is easy from here, but not bolted.

Per Alan Prehmus:
This 400’ route is ~35’ left of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky for the first 4 pitches, then crosses over and is ~20’ to the right of the last pitch of Playin’ Hooky. It’s a well protected sport route with good belay ledges.

Start on the 4 foot ledge overhanging the creek, 30 feet below and upstream of the start of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky. It's the second route left of Solid Gold.

The first pitch climbs up and left, then follows some small left-facing corners. The roof can be finessed (5.7) by using the left wall of the corner. Belay above the roof on 2 bolts.

The second pitch passes a second black overhang to climber's left. Move back right above the overhang. Continue up the bolt line. Staying left of the bolts is easier. For more challenge, climb to the right of the bolts until the last two bolts under the final bulge. Avoid the two huge boulders on the right here as they may not be attached. Pull through the bulge (5.7) to the belay.

The third pitch has a (5.7) friction move below the second bolt but is mostly easier. Belay on the grassy 2 x 6 foot ledge on another pair of bolts.

The fourth pitch is also easier. From the belay bolts, move left then up past 4 bolts to the big grassy ledge. Walk the ledge to the double bolts under the right side of the overhang. Pitches 3 & 4 can be combined.

The fifth pitch passes the right margin of the overhang, then steps left (5.7) onto & above it. Enjoy the exposure as you clip the bolts straight up to the skyline. This pitch is 35 meters long. Belay from the triple bolts 12 feet back from the edge. Rappel from these bolts is _not_ recommended."

Descent: Rappel the route an quicklinks at all stations.

Location 

It is the second route left of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky.

Protection 

P1: 8ish bolts and 2 anchors.
P2: bolts?
P3: bolts?

Per Alan Prehmus: there are bolts all the way. Most pitches offer trad gear placement opportunities for those who want to practice placing gear while protected by bolts.


Photos of Black Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling over the mini-roof.
Pulling over the mini-roof.
Black Gold, 400 feet, nothing harder than 5.7. <br />The climbers visible are all on Solid Gold.
BETA PHOTO: Black Gold, 400 feet, nothing harder than 5.7.
The...
Kevin Yin at the start, seen from the first belay. <br />The climber on the left is at the start of Solid Gold/Playin' Hooky.
BETA PHOTO: Kevin Yin at the start, seen from the first belay....

Comments on Black Gold Add Comment
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By Alan Prehmus
From: littleton, co
Aug 23, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

8/23/14 - added a bolt at low ledge that overhangs the creek so that the route can be started there safely. It also removes the need to traverse to reach the route: Just scramble down the short gully from Playin' Hooky.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 24, 2014

Sounds like this pitch is just to the left of the first pitch of Solid Gold....
By Alan Prehmus
From: littleton, co
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is second left of the first pitch of Solid Gold. The (currently undocumented?) route immediately left goes through the right side of the black roof. This one goes through the left side of the black roof at the right-facing corner.