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 ADVANCED
Leominster State Forest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Edges and Ledges T 
Gulla Gulla Gully T 
Gulla Gulla Gully variation T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Climb Roof Variation T 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: spring, summer and fall
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013

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Description 

In the center of the tallest face is a nice, splitter fist crack. Start up the face below the crack. Once you gain the crack, pull a small overhang to its right while placing bomber gear (large cams) in the crack. A reachy move to a left facing horn gains a ledge to rest before tackling the crux overhanging face to the top. Pumpy moves up the face will test your finger strength for the grade. Caution!!!! The best hold before the top-out is a large, hollow flake of rock below the top. It makes an obvious, scary hollow sound when tapped. It is not to be trusted, and I plan to clean it off with a crow-bar at some point.

Location 

Center of the obvious main face.

Protection 

The climb takes plenty of gear. Mostly cams, however some of the placements are in poor rock. Trees make a suitable anchor on top. I would recommend top roping the climb first to get the beta down and feel out the loose rock.


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