|147 page views|
Start out by climbing a water polished face past 4 bolts to a crack system, get a good rest, continue up a hand crack to where it starts thinning down to fingers, undercling to a layback section, and fire your way up the crack to a good rest. The crack ends, then face climb past 1 more bolt and to the anchors. The crux is in the bolted line, but if you're new to the crack game, the undercling/layback section might feel harder. I first climbed this 4 years ago and remember there being ball bearings in the crack section, and last spring I got on it again and it had cleaned up nicely.
If looking up at the crag from the road, this route is to the right of the massive roof on right face of a right-facing corner.
Draws, nuts, and single rack of cams from #0.3 to #3 Camalots, doubles in fingers are optional. Caution, a 60m will BARELY get you down, a 70m rope is recommended.