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Start where three cracks descend from a large roof. The rightmost crack looks like the most aesthetic start. Climb to a stance below a large roof. Exit left on good horizontals and wedge yourself into the slot above. Belay from the ledge above the slot. Traverse right to the fixed gear above Red River Wall (a Sean Barb route) and rappell
There is a wide crack in a corner in the alcove to the right of Nevermore (the 5.8 one. This climb starts to the right of that wide corner crack.
Midsize to large cams
|By Matt Westlake|
Dec 5, 2012
Hey Eddie, might this be the same thing as the 5.9 in the Kelly guide called "The Corner"? I haven't looked for that one yet but it's in the same general area according to the topo. Btw, thanks for posting up the 8 near juggernaut - it's nice!
|By Edward Medina|
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 6, 2012
Might be. Although it's not really a corner feature. I'll have to take another look next time I'm there. I think there is a wide corner feature in that general vicinity that might be the route you are referencing in the Kelley guide.