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Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cheap Way to Die T 
Dial 911 T 
Do Rein Me T 
Gaucho Marx T 
Hanna Montana TR 
Harlequin T 
Harley Queen T 
If You see Crow, Bark! T 
Kid Calingula T 
Negro Girls T 
Orange Flake T 
Posse, The T 
R&R Revamped T 
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 
Right On T 
Santa Cruz T 
Silver Spur T 
Six Shooter T 
Walk on the Wild Side T 
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 
Write In TR 

Do Rein Me 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd & Donette Swain
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Nov 16, 2012

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Description 

Start about 15+ feet up and left of Right On below a water groove. Follow the water groove past 7 bolts more or less directly up toward the long crack system that is just left of Right On (this crack system comprises the upper pitches of Orange Flake).

At the bottom of the crack you'll find a stance with an old, rusty bolt (the belay bolt for P1 of Orange Flake). Go up the wide crack above the rusty bolt about ten feet (red Camalot) then go down and left past a cold shut to a ledge with a 2 bolt communal anchor.

A second pitch has been top roped climbing directly up the slabby face above the cold shut and to the left of the upper Orange Flake crack (5.10).

Location 

Start about 15+ feet left of Right On below a water groove.

Protection 

Rappel from the communal anchor with one rope.


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By Randy
Nov 18, 2012

If I might presume to out-guess the first ascentionist, I believe this route is Do Rein Me. *

It actually starts about 15+ feet left of Right On and follows a water groove past 7 bolts more or less directly up toward the long left crack system (which is followed by the upper pitches of Orange Flake). Move left near the bottom of the crack, passing an 8th and last bolt, then traverse directly left to a 2 bolt anchor (85+ foot rappel from here).

FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain, June, 2004.

  • (The Gaucho Marx description seems to describe this route, but that isn't correct -- Gaucho Marx begins further left -- actually climbing directly up to a passing over the Orange Flake feature. See comments for that route.)
By Murf
Mar 22, 2015

I can be so bold as to correct both the first ascentionist and the guidebook author....

The route does climb the right hand of two long water streaks, just left of Right On. I felt the crux was just past the first bolt, with another thoughtful part at bolts 4 and 5. At that point you make your way level with the first belay of Right On and move left to first belay of Orange Flake ( currently a rusty 1/4" bolt and a fixed stopper ). The bolt anchor is still at least 20" or more above and left at this point. Either slab out onto the scrappy face and work your way up and left (not recommended), or continue up the chimneyish crack of Orange Flake. Its pretty easy, but you could place gear if you were so inclined. Just under the level of the cold shut of P2 of Kid Calingula, work left, clipping that bolt (marked in Classic Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering), and then moving a bit down and left to the anchor.
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