Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Unknown Badasses |
Page Views: | 1,143 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Josh Ewing on Sep 4, 2012 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Traverse a few feet left (west) to where it's possible to set up a belay using small cams in a pocket. (Your belayer will be above a blank slab, so a fall would take you both for a ride, without the anchor). Climb the sandy slab, with a cruxy section above the pin to a ledge. Traverse this 30ish feet left to another drilled pin and go up a challenging vertical seam (5.11) to another ledge. Protect your second in a nice crack and traverse all the way left around to the other side of the tower. Belay at a drilled pin, which is next to a good protection crack. You will now be in the shade on the north side of the tower. Pitch two climbs the gaping offwidth above you. The first real difficulties comes at a v-slot that's just too small to squeeze through, requiring you to climb the outside. Above the crack widens to just too wide for you big cams. Fortunately, those who came before drilled 3 fixed pins. This pitch is fairly well protected, but hard and sandy. I'd give it desert 10+ OW, but many will be tempted to down grade it to 5.11.
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