|San Juan Canyon
If you are climbing the Ortega waterfall this is worth driving to. The crux is right in the middle, traverse out right using 2 very awkward small crimps to gain a lie back crack on the other side of the arete. to top out search for the jugs inside the crack.
park in the bear canyon loop trail parking lot, located across the street from the candy store a couple miles down the road from the Ortega waterfall. from the north end of the lot hike north on the trail for about 5 min. you will see the route as you approach. you can't miss it, it's the first "view" you have on the trail. when you pass the hand rail veer right on a small climbers trail to the top of the climb. rap down or take the trail along the creek down.
3 bolt top rope anchor. 2 old and one new --- this was the anchor; now it's 3 sets of chain anchors, 2 have 7 bolts on each line and one line is the missing bolts...
BETA PHOTO: at the crux
BETA PHOTO: the anchor is two kinda sketchy button heads that ...
BETA PHOTO: well protected