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 ADVANCED
San Juan Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Annihilation Operator T 
Conduction Band, The TR 
Fermi Level, The T 
Feynman's Path T,TR 
Randy Moss, The TR 
Route 1 S 
Route 2 S 
Route 3 S 
S's Bane 1 
S's Bane 2 
Unknown TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: summers are hot, after 2pm its shaded. during high water a belay might not
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: Ronnie St. Jean on Aug 12, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: new chains

Description 

If you are climbing the Ortega waterfall this is worth driving to. The crux is right in the middle, traverse out right using 2 very awkward small crimps to gain a lie back crack on the other side of the arete. to top out search for the jugs inside the crack.

Location 

park in the bear canyon loop trail parking lot, located across the street from the candy store a couple miles down the road from the Ortega waterfall. from the north end of the lot hike north on the trail for about 5 min. you will see the route as you approach. you can't miss it, it's the first "view" you have on the trail. when you pass the hand rail veer right on a small climbers trail to the top of the climb. rap down or take the trail along the creek down.

Protection 

3 bolt top rope anchor. 2 old and one new --- this was the anchor; now it's 3 sets of chain anchors, 2 have 7 bolts on each line and one line is the missing bolts...


Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
at the crux
BETA PHOTO: at the crux
the anchor is two kinda sketchy button heads that need to be replaced and one solid brand new fixe triplex bolt with fixe coated stainless steel hanger <br />-this is no longer the anchor-
BETA PHOTO: the anchor is two kinda sketchy button heads that ...
well protected
BETA PHOTO: well protected

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