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court humping the flake
Unsure of name or true grade of this one. Saw the man Reid Dowdle and some other locals doing this one. Likely the start to a longer aid route, but makes a great single pitch climb. Overheard him say it was 10a sandbag. I personally felt it was 10a, much easier than other .10 pitches on the perch. Fun flake with great jamming and a bit of liebacking during the wide parts. Crux at top as you get a decent fingerlock to a big jug on top.
Located 100 feet left of beckey direct, big obvious right facing flake
standard rack to #3 camalot. Rap off tree with slings
By dave bingham
Sep 24, 2012
I think this must be the start of "Slipstream" (.10/A3+). The first pitch is free - right facing flake, followed by two aid pitches, including the infamous tied-off drill bit pendulum.