Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
T-Wall East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Tension Span 
Abortion Contortion 
Ain't So Eazy 
Art 
Atom Smasher 
Bin Laden Been Fooled 
Bin Laden Been Fooled* 
Blind Date 
Blood on the Rocks 
Board Walk 
Brazen Serpent 
Bugs From Hell 
Cake Walk 
Can O' Worms 
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) 
Celestial Mechanics 
Centerfold 
Changnurdle 
Clip and Trip 
Competitive Edge 
Contents Under Pressure 
Corner Pockets 
Cota Coca 
Crackattack 
Crash Position 
Crazy Hooker 
Creaky Tweaks 
Curb Sandwich 
Day's Work 
Defcon Five 
Digital Display 
Digital Macabre 
Dirt Bag 
Don't Tell A Soul 
Electric Rats 
Exodus 
Exposed Aggregate 
False Alarm 
Fill in the Blanks 
Finagle 
Finger Lockin' Good 
Fly with the Falcon 
Garden, The 
Genesis 
Gift of Power 
Golden Gloves 
Golden Locks 
Gravity Creeps 
Guardian of the Gate 
Hands Across America 
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The 
Heaven of Animals, The 
Hidden Assets 
Hold Your Horses! 
House of The Rising Sun 
Hungry for Heaven 
I'm Late 
In Pursuit of Excellence 
Infinite Pursuit 
Jay Walker 
Let's Face It! 
Line Drive 
Lord of the Dance 
Love Handle 
March Hare 
Margin Of Error 
Margin of Profit 
Massive Attack 
Mean Cuisine 
Meeker Rat, The 
Mirage 
Molly and Rocket 
Motor Booty 
Mrs. Socrates 
Multiple Use Area 
My Lost China Doll 
Myth of the Spastics 
Nappy 
New Beginnings 
Night Shift 
No More Tiers 
Nutrasweet 
Open Sesame 
Paleface 
Passages 
People's Express 
Plastic Toys 
Point of Departure 
Points O' Contact 
Precious Orr 
Prerequisite for Excellence 
Puppy Ride 
Razor Worm 
Reptile Analysis 
Reptile Paralysis 
Restless Pedestrian 
Ruby Fruit Jungle 
Sanscrit 
Scamper Proof 
Seal Test 
Shiva's Last Dance 
Short Arm Inspection 
Sly Willie Snores 
Some Girls 
Southern Express 
Squatter's Rites 
Standard Deviation 
Steel Puppies 
Steeplechase 
Steepopolis 
Stepping Stone 
Stone Wave 
Sugar in the Raw 
Sun King 
Sunday Gardening 
Super Slide 
Surf's Up 
Sweep, The 
Time Takes a Cigarette 
Totem Pole 
Twistin' in the Wind 
Unknown 
Up in Arms 
Who Needs a Thnead? 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 25, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
T wall arete

Description 

Climb the initial part of the aręte past small gear to stance. Step right to a crack on the face. When the crack ends, do a bit of face climbing, up and left, past spaced gear to the top.


Location 

A "found" route located between Contents Under Pressure (wide crack with a chockstone) and True Colors (left facing corner) – It starts at the toe of the aręte between those routes.


Protection 

Mostly small stuff. No anchors, use a tree at the top and rap from Totem Pole.



Comments on Unknown Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Dec 25, 2011

The day this route was “done”, we found out our good friend, climber and Tennessee Wall regular, Jerry Dodgen was in the hospital ending a long fight against cancer. He died peacefully the next day. This route is named in his honor.

After consulting guide books and guidebook authors, it appears this route hasn’t been done(?). Also a fair amount of vine pulling, crack cleaning and dead pine tree trundling was done. Just needs a bit more traffic to get rid of some of the lichen.

By Rob Dillon
Dec 26, 2011

Brandon Mack and I climbed this in about 2001 or 2001, and I've done it a couple times since. I remember a kind of sporty move down low, before you get any gear, and then an easy romp to the top where one had to clamber through the dead pine. Jerry always brought great psyche and I'm sorry to hear of his passing. I hope I'm still sixty-one and having fun the way he did- a generous spirit and an inspiration to a lot of folks.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Dec 26, 2011

Rob - thanks for adding and clearing up. Didn't think it was new but couldn't find any details about it. I will change details, etc. if you let me know...

Sixty one and having fun...great route.

By Rob Dillon
Dec 28, 2011

Looks like I put it in here under 'Myth of the Spastics'. Admin!

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 3, 2012

I am adding a picture to help clear things up. I think this may be a variation of 'Myth of the Spactics'. I think the "crux" move of this variation if up high on the clean face out right - versus scampering up high. Either way this would be a nice moderate if more people climbed it to help clean it a bit.

By Rob Dillon
Jan 17, 2012

That's it in the picture. We started on the left side. I remember thinking I could hit the ground there but no such worries on the hard move up high.

By Scott Perkins
Jan 26, 2012

I think that arete is one of those routes that has seen a half dozen "FAs" in the past 25 years. Sounds like Rob did a different start and different finish. We started on the right side of arete and went straight up to top staying just right along the arete (left of dead pine which has been trundled). I believe this upper part is also the finish for Contents Under Pressure.
I like the name 'Myth of the Spactics' course somebody might be posting up shortly saying they did it 1990, and they called is 'Nevermind'. Regardless, its pretty fun climbing.