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 ADVANCED
Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Botox S 
Dope S 
Faith S 
Leper S 
Leprosy S 
Minutia S 
New 1 S 
Rosebudd S 
Soul Crusher S 
Unknown S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Aug 29, 2011

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Closed Permanently for Sensitive Archaeological Resources MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route while it doesn't look like much has a fun and difficult boulder problem between easier sections of climbing. Start with Minutia and follow jugs for the first two bolts. After clipping the second bolt, make a hard left and enter the crux. A difficult (and somewhat terrifying third clip) on bad holds and a heel toe cam, lead into powerful compression moves. Make a final throw to a jug and continue up two more bolts of 5.9 choss to the anchors.

Be extremely careful on the clip, your back is only about 7 feet of the ground while clipping, we used a crashpad here just in case.

I'm guessing the boulder problem is V8 which puts the grade at 13b since there isn't much of an endurance aspect. Although the boulder problem may be harder so it may end up being 13c.


Location 

Far left side of the Cave, Shares start and first two bolts with "Minutia". After the Second bolt climb straight out of the cave.


Protection 

5 Bolts to Anchors, All Fixed. Stickclip, Crashpad, and an attentive belayer.



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