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 ADVANCED
Gateway Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little More Hoof S 
Drive By Shooting S 
Flake Out S 
Forest S 
Garden Wall T,S,TR 
General Mayhem S 
Green Thumb S 
Major Distraction S 
Road Rage S 
Unknown S 
Woof Toof Noof Roof S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 48'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Sarah Brion
Page Views: 575
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 31, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Featured and fun. July 2011.

Description 

Starting in the corner between Drive By Shooting and Garden Wall, follow generous holds up a the shallow dihedral though some small plants to the anchor in a bulge.
Fun climbing and appropriate for the area. Like neighboring routes, the hardest move is getting off the ground due to the undercut start. Easier than Green Thumb though.

Location 

Between Drive By Shooting and Garden Wall.

Protection 

Five bright and shiny bolts (it would be advisable to paint hangers in such a high traffic area) to a beefy steel locking biner anchor.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 26, 2011

I swapped out all the hangers and the anchor on this route today with painted/colored hardware since this route is in such a high, non-climber-traffic area and the shiny anchors were easily visible from the highway.
When I tried to remove the hanger on the first bolt, the bolt spun in the hole and had a lot of play in the hole. Since it was in a non-optimal spot anyway (a dished area that made it difficult to clip), I placed a new bolt/hanger to the right. I was able to pry the original wedge bolt/hanger out of the hole without too much effort. Perhaps the hole wasn't cleaned out well before the bolt was placed.

The route also initially had two big, beefy anchor setups, with one four feet above the other. I took down the upper one because it seemed unnecessary.