This route is a combination of gear and bolts. It seems to follow a crack just around the right edge of the arete. Follow this up to a small roof section. A horizontal crack here marks the crux of the route. Balancy moves with good foot and not so good hands give way to a really good jug. Follow the arete to the anchors.
This route is on the same face as Sunset Arete, and climbs the arete on the opposite side. From left to right you have Sunsete Arete, Edge of Night, then this route.
I TR'd this, so I'm just guessing on gear sizes by what I remember. There are 2 or 3 bolts down lower before the roofy section. There is some spacing between these as you climb the crack. Probably mostly medium to large cams (there was a section of fist and 4" sized jamming). You may or may not want another piece at the horizontal crack at the roof section which looked like it would be about green metolius, or maybe smaller (~1.5-2").
After you pass the roof, there are 2? more bolts before the chains.
|By Kurt Howes|
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
two very competant 5.11 climbers could not lead this crux. Gave it our all and maybe we're missing something (key hold broken?), but be prepared to bail if you're not up for a committing 11+ (or harder?) crux move above your gear with weird fall consequences.
Jun 24, 2013
Flashed this BITD (before I sucked), so maybe something broke. I've never been good @ 5.11.
Or 5.7 for that matter.