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Routes in East Side
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Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cold Turkey S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B |
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Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silver Spoon S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stalactite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Paul Lanz, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,104 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Sep 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This climb is located in the middle of the Gash, about 50 feet left of Candyman. It is a steep and sustained sport climb protected by fixed pins. The rock looks loose, but it's actually decent. From the ground, this climb looks pretty scary. It's about 20 feet to the 1st pin, then there's another somewhat runout section between the 3rd and 4th pins, combined with the sandy nature of the feet since it rarely gets climbed, also the fact that the walls are sort of narrow here, and if you blew a hold or had a bad fall, you could potentially hit the opposite wall. Nonetheless, I think it's just as good or even better than Candyman, and if more people climb it, it would probably be even better.
Next time I'll replace the old webbing at the anchor.
If anyone has any info on the name or FA party, please let me know and I'll update the description. I'm guessing maybe FA by Eric Johnson, Mike Johnson, or Earl Wiggins? But definitely just guessing.
Next time I'll replace the old webbing at the anchor.
If anyone has any info on the name or FA party, please let me know and I'll update the description. I'm guessing maybe FA by Eric Johnson, Mike Johnson, or Earl Wiggins? But definitely just guessing.
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