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Butt-Crack Crag
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unknown T,TR 

unknown 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: erik kapec on Mar 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Its the right facing crack in middle of formation.

Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

You can do this in one or two pitches. To do it in one its best to scramble to the ledge above the slab, to prevent rope drag. Or start at the base of the run out slab, climb to ledge just right of little tree at the base of the right facing crack. Set up anchor and climb. The main crack runs up the middle right above the tree on the ledge, crack starts kind of thin. The block when puling the bulge is kinda shaky, but we used it. Once you are on lower angled rock, the crack continues, progressively widening until a good sized tree protrudes out of crack. (tree can be used to top rope as well).

Location 

There is a walk off on climbers right. With some pretty easy exploratory down scrambling you will end up at the base.

Protection 

cams .3-4, larger size nuts.


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the crack!
the crack!

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By Kevin Keith
Mar 15, 2010

I climbed both these routes in '92. There was an old Forrest stopper in the crack at the flake before it gets wide and slabby over the lip. So, I obviously wasn't the first either. So much has been climbed in the basin with little record; mainly word of mouth.