Unknown 5.10- R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Eric Odenthal on Nov 3, 2009 |
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The fingers on the right on the approach
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Description A few mantles lead to the slot/chimney between the fingers. Run it out for 50' before getting in your first piece. Climb the chimney, using both pillars.
Location Climb right up the middle... right between the lines.
I added new cord to the anchor in 10/09. Rap 80' to the deck.
Protection (1) #2BD, (1)#1BD, (2) #4 BD, (1)#5BD, (1).5 BD
BETA PHOTO: The awesome formation
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let it begin
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gary up in it
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on belay
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taylor
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Paul Hanging Out!
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from kings hand
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zoom from kings hand
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By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2012
| I put in the anchor in the late 90's, someone had climbed it before and had rapped off a single piece called a "teton". It's a really cool unique climb, although I don't remember it being as hard as 5.10. I always wondered who did the 1st??? |
By Eric Odenthal
Apr 18, 2012
| Thanks for the anchor A. Roberts. Truly a unique rock climb. |
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.9 R
| we drove in starting from a driveway down river from moonflower then 4x4 back up following the power lines. short easy walk in flip flops to the climb. gary did a SIC job on his first gear lead. run out for sure. a fixed pin would make this thing a lot safer even though it's fairly solid in the chimney. small fingers for your first good gear and bring one 3, 4, and 5 camalot for the upper section. we replaced the webbing. two fixed pins with a quick link for the anchor. way fun and interesting climb. 5.9 |
By Bondo
Jun 21, 2012
| A great little climb easy to get to. |
By Gary H
From: Moab, UT
Jun 21, 2012
| Fun Climb. In the shade for most of the morning, so its a good summer route. |
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