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Moonflower Canyon
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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,310
Submitted By: Eric Odenthal on Nov 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A few mantles lead to the slot/chimney between the fingers. Run it out for 50' before getting in your first piece. Climb the chimney, using both pillars.


Climb right up the middle... right between the lines.
I added new cord to the anchor in 10/09. Rap 80' to the deck.


(1) #2BD, (1)#1BD, (2) #4 BD, (1)#5BD, (1).5 BD

Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The awesome formation
BETA PHOTO: The awesome formation
Rock Climbing Photo: The fingers on the right on the approach
The fingers on the right on the approach
Rock Climbing Photo: on belay
on belay
Rock Climbing Photo: from kings hand
from kings hand
Rock Climbing Photo: taylor
Rock Climbing Photo: gary up in it
gary up in it
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Hanging Out!
Paul Hanging Out!
Rock Climbing Photo: zoom from kings hand
zoom from kings hand

Comments on Unknown Add Comment
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By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2012

I put in the anchor in the late 90's, someone had climbed it before and had rapped off a single piece called a "teton". It's a really cool unique climb, although I don't remember it being as hard as 5.10. I always wondered who did the 1st???
By Eric Odenthal
Apr 18, 2012

Thanks for the anchor A. Roberts. Truly a unique rock climb.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

we drove in starting from a driveway down river from moonflower then 4x4 back up following the power lines. short easy walk in flip flops to the climb. gary did a SIC job on his first gear lead. run out for sure. a fixed pin would make this thing a lot safer even though it's fairly solid in the chimney. small fingers for your first good gear and bring one 3, 4, and 5 camalot for the upper section. we replaced the webbing. two fixed pins with a quick link for the anchor. way fun and interesting climb. 5.9
By Bondo
Jun 21, 2012

A great little climb easy to get to.
By Gary H
From: Moab, UT
Jun 21, 2012

Fun Climb. In the shade for most of the morning, so its a good summer route.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 17, 2014

Okay, that's one of the coolest features I've ever seen, yet it doesn't have a name!? Please, someone give it a great name, like "Slotzilla" or something (but not that, obviously, that's a really dumb name).

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