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Moonflower Canyon
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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,212
Submitted By: Eric Odenthal on Nov 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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let it begin


A few mantles lead to the slot/chimney between the fingers. Run it out for 50' before getting in your first piece. Climb the chimney, using both pillars.


Climb right up the middle... right between the lines.
I added new cord to the anchor in 10/09. Rap 80' to the deck.


(1) #2BD, (1)#1BD, (2) #4 BD, (1)#5BD, (1).5 BD

Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
The awesome formation
BETA PHOTO: The awesome formation
The fingers on the right on the approach
The fingers on the right on the approach
on belay
on belay
from kings hand
from kings hand
gary up in it
gary up in it
Paul Hanging Out!
Paul Hanging Out!
zoom from kings hand
zoom from kings hand

Comments on Unknown Add Comment
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By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2012

I put in the anchor in the late 90's, someone had climbed it before and had rapped off a single piece called a "teton". It's a really cool unique climb, although I don't remember it being as hard as 5.10. I always wondered who did the 1st???
By Eric Odenthal
Apr 18, 2012

Thanks for the anchor A. Roberts. Truly a unique rock climb.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

we drove in starting from a driveway down river from moonflower then 4x4 back up following the power lines. short easy walk in flip flops to the climb. gary did a SIC job on his first gear lead. run out for sure. a fixed pin would make this thing a lot safer even though it's fairly solid in the chimney. small fingers for your first good gear and bring one 3, 4, and 5 camalot for the upper section. we replaced the webbing. two fixed pins with a quick link for the anchor. way fun and interesting climb. 5.9
By Bondo
Jun 21, 2012

A great little climb easy to get to.
By Gary H
From: Moab, UT
Jun 21, 2012

Fun Climb. In the shade for most of the morning, so its a good summer route.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 17, 2014

Okay, that's one of the coolest features I've ever seen, yet it doesn't have a name!? Please, someone give it a great name, like "Slotzilla" or something (but not that, obviously, that's a really dumb name).
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