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 ADVANCED
Leaning Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blinded by the Light S 
Craggy Crack T,TR 
Lichen Attack Crack T 
Mainliner S 
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 
Second Thought S 
Tiny Propeller S 
Unknown S 
Will of the Wasp S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jul 19, 2009

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Richard Boyle working his way through the middle s...

Description 

This route climbs the arete on the left side of the tower from a high start off of a ledge around the corner. Compared to the other routes it is quite short but the climbing is interesting.

After stick clipping, head up the arete working between it and a seam/crack on the face to the left. Continue up to some better holds under the small roof on the right side of the arete. Powerful moves back to the left side and up into better holds along a right facing flake and the anchors above.

Location 

Climbs the left arete of the leaning tower starting off of a ledge about 20-30 feet up and around the corner.

Protection 

5 bolts, bring a stick clip. Falling before being clipped in would be disastrous and if as mentioned below, some hangers are missing it is going to be a long way to that first bolt.


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Richard Boyle slaping his way up the lower bit
Richard Boyle slaping his way up the lower bit

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By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jul 23, 2009

Looks pretty cool, almost like a flake/finger crack, but is very short and missing the first two hangers. I put up another mid-range 12 on an arete left of it and the 5.10 crack.

It would be much better looking if it were not next to the beautiful, tall routes on the Tower.
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Apr 17, 2011

Yes willam your climb is amazing! It would be true New Mexico classic if it was not right next to the tower! It was like climbing a 30' tuffa arÍte! Great job and what is it's name?
By Jean
Sep 13, 2011

I'm pretty sure this is a Lee Sheftel route.