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 ADVANCED
The Sponge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hollywood Tim S 
Mad Dogs and Englishmen S 
Napoleon's Angst S 
Pumping Huecos S 
Sal's Neurosis S 
Sponge Problem, The 
Unknown S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Harry P. Ness
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 16, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Pulling the crux.

Description 

Follow the huecos up the black streak right of Pumping Huecos. Interesting moves with big pockets lead through a fun steep section; this part is reminiscent of similar parts of Pumping Huecos and Hollywood Tim. A well-protected thin move follows the steep part. Clip one more bolt (that a steel ring on it). Rather than lowering off this single bolt, it is sensible to continue up and right over easier terrain, clipping the top bolt of Mad Dogs and Englishmen to the 2-bolt anchor, which is also shared with Hollywood Tim.

Location 

This climb begins 10' right of Pumping Huecos, following bolts up a black streak.

Protection 

6 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor for Hollywood Tim. The last bolt is also shared with Mad Dogs and Englishmen.


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By harry p ness 69
Apr 26, 2011

when I set up this route the idea was always to go to the achors of maddogs and englishmen. I just ran out of regular hangers, if anyone wants to change out the hanger be my guest.
By Serge Arsenyev
Aug 31, 2014

It is not fun to finish the route and realize there's no anchors...