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Rock Island I
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Destroyer TR 
Independent T 
Unknown T 
Unknown II aka The Broken Wing TR 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: a drytooling climber
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: Chris O'Connor on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Doing the line via toprope--trying to turn the roo...

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  • Description 

    Route finding is key on this line, because the gear is a little sparse. Find the two bolt anchor on the NW side of the Rock Island, and zig zag up placing gear where you can. Be careful as some of the rock seems a little loose.

    Location 

    This is to the right of Destroyer on the NW face. It is closer to the parking area than the other routes. The anchor bolts are a little bit harder to see than the anchors on Independent. If you take a few steps back towards the river and look hard, you should be able to find them.

    Protection 

    Small gear, nuts and cams.


    Comments on Unknown Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 28, 2008

    To lead this you end up taking a rather unpleasant line in order to place protection. A more direct and much more enjoyable route can be taken with the safety of a top rope.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    Jul 6, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Interesting, but a little contrived and grungy with a lot of groveling. The holds on this route are also a big contrast from the routes elsewhere on the rock.

    As for finding the route, start at the awkward bulge about 10' left of a huge iron eye-bolt at ground level. Moving straight up from the eye-bolt gets you to a much lower pair of cold shuts on what looks like an easier line.
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