Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Santa 
Community Service 
Ecstatic Electricity 
Fish, The 
Four Play 
I Been Robbed 
Last Lonely Eagle 
Litheon Flux 
Lugee Head 
Massive Headwound Harry 
Send It 
Short Vacation 
Stealin 
Three Sheets To The Wind  
Triple Header 
Triple Play 
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) 
Unknown (Right of Four Play) 
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) 
Unknown 5.6 
Unnamed Mixed Route 
Valentine Arete 
Valentine Corner 
Welcome to Milagrosa 
Where the Buffalo Roam 
Wizard, The 

Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Dec 18, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Uh Oh

Description 

This climb is unnamed and rated 5.10 in the Tucson Select Sport Climbing book. It has some hard moves and the clips are very tricky and sketchy on the lower part. The crux move feels harder than straight 5.10.


Location 

Leftmost route on the Main Wall, left of I've Been Robbed.


Protection 

Bolts & chains.



Comments on Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2014
By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 21, 2006

Maybe some day... a generous person will improve the bolt locations on this route, by either moving the first bolt up, or the second bolt down. I've seen one bad fall with the climber hitting the belayer in the head, hard.

By Jimbo
Jan 3, 2007

The second bolt should be moved down. The next time I'm in there with the old Bosch I'll move it.

By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route would be pretty decent without the deck potential. It's thin all the way through from the 1st to 2nd bolt making the clip difficult even if the bolt were lower. I decked from about 15+ feet(at the 2nd clip) and the rope came tight just as I hit, keeping me from falling backward down the hill. I pulled through 2nd try using a different clipping hold. What turned out to be a normal day sport climbing could of been bad if my belayer had been standing directly below me. I had assessed the route and noticed the ground fall potential, so I asked my belayer to stand off to one side. Just a reminder to be "heads up".

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jan 29, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I'm the climber Steve means by his 'cracking the belayer in the head' anecdote. Moving between the 1st and 2nd bolts is the crux, and since the bolt placements are horrible at best, you're basically doing it sans pro. In my opinion, the crux is the only 5.10 move on this climb, the rest is 8-9 at best and not enjoyable. Avoid.

By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2007

After thinking a little more about this, I'm not really sure where the bolts should be. All I know is I don't like the clipping stance for the second bolt.

By jbak
Feb 2, 2007

So then this route lets you do a little soloing, or lets you practice down-climbing. Both contribute to your skills.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

this route is worth doing, and it took all of us multiple tries to send it so it's harder than 5.10.

By Slaton Whatley
Nov 15, 2013

I just tried this route today and I didn't have the mental fortitude to try and clip the second bolt. Scary climbing through there. The movement is definitely fun though. Did it on top rope after my friend got through the crux on lead. Second bolt doesn't seemed to have been moved...

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 4, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

I was Slaton's friend who "got through the crux on lead." I did it by straining at the absolute limit of my reach (I'm 5'11") off terrible holds to get the draw through the bolt, then quickly grabbing the draw to clip in lieu of decking. Pretty annoying--might be worth it if there was something more than 20 feet of 5.8 above, but there's not. That said, like jbak says this route does give you the opportunity to practice skills that you might need, on routes that *are* worth it. Other than that I'd recommend doing another route, unless you've already climbed everything on the main wall.

By MikeKane
Feb 10, 2014

I would give this route two stars if the bolting weren't so scary. The second bolt placement has already been discussed but I also did not like the run out before the last bolt as the natural line trends left and directly over a large ledge that would be difficult to avoid if you fell near the bolt.

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Some kind soul recently moved the second bolt a foot lower, greatly improving the flow and safety of the lower section, not to mention mercifully putting a stop to the ongoing whine-fest here. No longer a bomb (but still 11-, and harder than Stealin'!) in my book. Thanks to whoever did it. Note that if you're short, you still might have the issues noted above.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 18, 2014

I believe the bolt was upgraded as the old bolt and hanger were mixed metals (stainless/non-stainless). Rock quality may account for how it ended up lower so it could be more easily clipped. Hmmm, what a coincidence eh Jimbo. Just saying what I believe happened.

By Jimbo
Mar 18, 2014

OK I posted I would move it down in 2007. It took me 7 years to get around to it. Is this what they mean by a 7 year itch.