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 ADVANCED
Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 15, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Downward facing flake at the start of Unknown 5.9 ...

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mistakenly listed as "Anal Sex" in the Supertopo guide.
Climb a left leaning lieback, then climb face to the ledge.
Climb 5.8 face to the summit.

Protection 

Best to top rope or solo.


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By Floyd Hayes
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

The two pitches of "Anal Sex" in the SuperTopo guide were fun top-ropes and looked like they would be good leads. They deserve a formal name! We encountered a bunch of wasps guarding the diagonal crack on the upper part of the second pitch.