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Al Cap
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Unknown 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Horan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 29, 2002

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Al Cap outcrop, and the No Equity route 5.12.

Description 

This middle of three lines ascends on a system of very fingery and small edges and corners. Since it pushed me off immediately, I set up the top rope to work out the beta. The climbing reminded me of a more vertical Twitch, but with even smaller holds and some perplexing body position. For an over grown boulder problem, it seemed very continuous for all of its 35 feet. Bullet-proof stone, complex sequences, reasonable pro, very fingery. Nice job by BH.

Protection 

Four draws and a rope. Now has double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 30, 2008

My first impression of this neat little problem suggested a very hard route. In re-running it, however, I made a series of zig-zags across the face and this limits the difficulty to about 12a with several 11c sequences. This is really an excellent problem that packs a lot of climbing into its 35 feet. The rock quality is perfect throughout.