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Unknown 5.9 on the left, Lover Leap on the right. ...
This is a great route in my opinion (all pitches).
Start about 20 feet left of the route Lover's Leap. Look for a blocky face with bolts.
P1: Follow the bolts up a steep slab. Turn a crux overhang (9+ or 10a) and continue up to a 2-bolt anchor. Great, 5.9++. You can place a blue Alien just before the crux bulge and a black Alien to protect the final moves to the anchor.
From here, you can traverse right and continue on the route Lover's Leap. Or else continue with the Unknown route if you are comfortable with runout climbing:
P2: Approximately 5 feet right of the belay is a shallow left-facing inside corner with a knifeblade below a bulge about 10 feet up. Ascend the corner to the pin, clip it for fun, and move up another foot or so to a stance and place some pro (possibly "s"). I was able to get a fairly good yellow Alien and a #4 Lowe Ball. Pull the bulge (approx. 5.8) to some easier well protected ground above. Climb to a large sloping ledge. At this ledge there are two terrible bolts and a good slung flake, this is an optional belay. Climb up the ledge to the left to a left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a roof with good holds and a little loose rock, this is with no pro and about 40 foot run out (5.7 vs). Above the roof is some good pro and well protected 5.9 crack/ face climbing. Climb to the end of the crack and traverse right to a 3-bolt belay. Great, 5.9.
P3: You can easily traverse right to the finish of the standard route. Better yet, climb up and left on sparse protection to a large ledge. Above the ledge is a small roof, find a thin vertical seem, place some small gear, and pull up on to the steep face above. Ascend straight up the face past diagonal cracks for gear and a little lichen to the top. Fabulous finish, 5.8+.
The first pitch is bolted (8-9 bolts plus a blue and black Alien); the second and third are trad and runout.
Bruce Hildenbrand near the top of the first pitch....
This is looking up that .10a mixed-pro protected s...
At the crux roof on a Top Rope lap.
BETA PHOTO: The route clearly showing the start.
BETA PHOTO: The bolted 5.9 start from the bottom. The small ro...
|By Bruce Hildenbrand|
Jun 30, 2004
On 6/07/04 Ron Olsen and I upgraded the anchor on top of the 1st pitch. We added a hanger to an already existing 3/8" bolt stud and then added quick links and a couple of links of 3/8" chain to the anchor to facilitate a rappel.
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA).Visit their website at www.safeclimbing.org, they appreciate your support.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2004
The first pitch is excellent face and slab climbing, with a 10a crux overhang. I placed a blue Alien before clipping the bolt at the crux and was glad to have it. I also placed a black Alien near the top of the pitch to protect a hard move to the anchor.
We continued up Lover's Leap from the top of the first pitch.
|By Matt Chan|
From: Denver, CO
Apr 10, 2006
We did pitch one only and I thought it was worth the time. Probably falls in the 5.9 range. Regarding the anchor at the top of the pitch, the addition of either chains or webbing with rings wouldn't be a bad idea. When rapping, all the weight is placed on one bolt, which of course could be bad news if that bolt were to fail for whatever reason. Start the standard route with this pitch to increase satisfaction.
|By Randy Carmichael|
From: Boulder, CO
May 19, 2006
From the P1 anchors to the ground is right at 30 meters. So, with your knots you may come up about 3 meters short if you are being lowered with a 60 meter rope. Be sure your belayer is tied in. I had to untie about 8 feet up and downclimb to the ground.
|By Tom Pierce|
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 7, 2006
I did this pitch recently and found it well worth the time, a far better start than the normal first pitch of the 5.7 Lover's Leap route, albeit much harder. It's almost a high angle slab, i.e. footwork is key. I'll also echo the comment above about gear; this is a bolt-protected route, not a sport climb, so a couple of micro-cams might be good. Others used Aliens, I used 2 Metolius 00 cams, which seemed to fit well below the roof and again just before topping out. From the belay it's about a 15-20' traverse right (facing the cliff) to the main 5.7 line.