|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 22, 2002|
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From: here and there
Dec 31, 2009
|Think you have the wrong route. Don't know the name of this one, but Right Toilet Crack pretty much shares the same start as Left TC. Right is 5 pitches now, according to Birds new guide book, 2 pitches added in 2000. I've only done the first three, and they come in at solid 10. I think the FA on both Left and Right TC were done by J. Tainio, not sure exactly when though.|
May 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fun route with solid rock up most of the way. Sounds like a different route for sure. The toilet crack right that I climbed went like this...
Pitch 1. Climb a corner with tight hands into a chimney. Get way inside and jam out to the left into a corner, lie back and finger lock to chain anchors. Hard 5.8
Pitch 2. Wide hands to fist corner to bolted anchors 5.8
Pitch 3. Climb the wide crack. It spits you outs, make some moves, and sucks you in the toilet. Inch your way out, jam and crimp a fun roof problem to a big sandy ledge and build a trad anchor. 5.9+/10a
Pitch 4. Stem and chimney up a corner with boulders stacked inside to a low angle wide crack bolted anchors 5.7
Pitch 5. Climb wide crack to a lie back corner bolted anchors. 5.7
We brought 2 ropes but seems like you could rap the route with a 70m (not 100% sure). Double rack to #4bd, triples in hand size, 1 #5 (2 is nice for pitch 3).
By Ben Collett
Oct 17, 2010
|Having climbed the same route as Ras Fett, I will add only that the first pitch felt substantially harder than anything else on the route. Fun route. Worth doing for a short sandy adventure.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2011
It is the wrong route, no doubt...
The question is who edited it to put the AKA: in there and make this the wrong route?!?!
I just described what I described and called it an unknown.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 7, 2011
|I removed the Toilet Crack Right notation.|