||Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
|Consensus: ||WI3 M4 [details]|
|Page Views: ||999|
|Submitted By: ||Scott Krankkala on Nov 12, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.
The pictures and this description are valid for Nov. 10, 2009. Note at the time of ascent the climbing was no harder than WI3+ M4. Once the ice gets fatter this has potential to be a really cool climb with great views.
Rack: Rock pro and screws.
P1: Follow the low angle slab to the ledge belay from a the fixed webbing on a tree 20 feet up and right.
P2: From the tree move left and climb up to the next shelf. Belay from a tree with fixed webbing about 10 feet up and right.
P3: Slog through the snow for about 70 feet to the base of the third pitch. Climb the third pitch and either find a tree or v-thread to rappel to the belays to reach the bottom.
Note: Double 60m ropes are required for the rappel beta.
If anybody has more information on this route including the name or FA info be sure to post!
Drive 1.3 miles past the seasonal closure to a pullout on the left side of the road. From here, look directly left and see the ice. Cross the stream and hike up the gully to the base.
Bring a good set of screws with stubbys and some small rock pro (wires and TCUs).
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: A view of the climb from the road.
BETA PHOTO: Fat conditions on 2015-01-03, no rock on route. Be...
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 14, 2015
rating: WI3 M4 PG13
Climbed this to the summit with a client over three days. First day was a late start on the ice to a small bivy on the right before the snow gully turns. The next day was some snow and easier (M4ish) climbing to the left of where the snow ends at a headwall. I imagine in late winter or in a wetter winter there may be a another pitch of ice. As it was, we pulled some mixed shenanigans and traversed back into the gully. From there, we climbed about 1000' of steepish snow and then some easy mixed to another nice bivy just above 12,800 (more spacious one at 12,100'). The last has couple of hundred feet has some fun snow ridge, a little rock scrambling, and some great views. Overall, it was about 3000' of climbing with at least half of it worth bringing the rope for. The climbing was WI3 M4 50 degree snow. Great as an alpine route. We took packs for the fun of bivvying on the route, but a fast party should be capable of doing it in a day in good conditions. A less fast party could probably get to the spacious bivy at 12,100. If anyone has any FA info or knowledge of whether it's been done to the top, I'd love to hear about it.
Digging deep! 12,100' bivy in the background.