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The pictures and this description are valid for Nov. 10, 2009. Note at the time of ascent the climbing was no harder than WI3+ M4. Once the ice gets fatter this has potential to be a really cool climb with great views.
Rack: Rock pro and screws.
P1: Follow the low angle slab to the ledge belay from a the fixed webbing on a tree 20 feet up and right.
P2: From the tree move left and climb up to the next shelf. Belay from a tree with fixed webbing about 10 feet up and right.
P3: Slog through the snow for about 70 feet to the base of the third pitch. Climb the third pitch and either find a tree or v-thread to rappel to the belays to reach the bottom.
Note: Double 60m ropes are required for the rappel beta.
If anybody has more information on this route including the name or FA info be sure to post!
Drive 1.3 miles past the seasonal closure to a pullout on the left side of the road. From here, look directly left and see the ice. Cross the stream and hike up the gully to the base.
Bring a good set of screws with stubbys and some small rock pro (wires and TCUs).
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.