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Riot 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Feb 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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MP.com Admin-extrordinaire Tony Stout warming up o...

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up less than vertical, highly featured, beautiful limestone. Climb up through a mini-crack system (not crack climbing), through a small bulge (crux), past some ledges, and through more featured slab.

Location 

Right side of the overhanging roof of the primary wall, climb the corner and finish up high.

Protection 

Bolts, Chains

Crux 

The cruxy bulge can give the strongest climbers fits, which suprises most. Watched a stout 5.12 gym rat get spit out like a sunflower seed shell, LOL. Anyhow, as with most things in climbing, it is all about your feet. Throwing up a high left foot, shifting your weight onto it, using the holds for balance not to pull up, then stand up and walk....I mean climb to the next bolt.


Photos of Riot Slideshow Add Photo
Tony on lucky #7.
Tony on lucky #7.

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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 25, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is one of the best 5.8's, if not the best, that I have climbed in New Mexico. Long (compared to most New Mexico routes), with flawless stone, it is not to be missed!
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 11, 2008

If we visit this wall, everyone usually does this route at least once. The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 11, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Craig Childre wrote:
The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot.


I can't say much regarding it being the best in the canyon, but I thought it was certainly better than Fossil Fuel, which was the only other 5.8 I did while I was there. I said one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, which really is not saying much either, I have not seen many great 5.8 sport routes in New Mexico (I'm comparing it with places in at my end of the woods, i.e: Datil, El Rito, Palomas, White Rock, etc.) Though, I have done better trad routes of the grade in the Sandias and at Tres Piedres.