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 ADVANCED
Reservoir Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Face T,TR 
Errors of Our Ways S 
Goodro's Chimney T 
I Ran To Afghanistan S 
Iraq in the Back Attack S 
Reservoir Ridge T 
Unknown Trad Line T 
War Clamor S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown Trad Line 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,324
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Jun 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

Located between Errors of Our Ways and Iraq in the Back Attack. A nice crack heads straight up and shares anchors with Iraq in the Back Attack.

Descend from chains with one rope or walk off as for Reservoir Ridge.

Location 

Reservoir Ridge East Face

Protection 

Can be protected with a rack of nuts, a few small cams might be useful. Some runouts might be encountered depending on one's protection placing abilities.


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By Kevin Rogers
19 hours ago

This is a fun route has been here for a half century or more. Its a great route for those fairly new to trad leads. That being said, placements are more challenging than the grade would suggest. There is a section mid route that doesn't have a lot of high quality placements but there are a few up higher if you press through. As for the rating, it has become very fashionable to under-rate climbs for some reason. This route has been mentioned in several older guidebooks as high as 5.6 but more commonly as 5.5. It appears the consensus is now 5.4 but by all rating standards that I am familiar with (I have been climbing for 30 years) this climb is a 5.5. A direct quote from "A Guide to the YDS System states, "Often vertical with very good and plentiful holds or slabs with easy-to-find edges. Holds are abundant for climbers of any height and almost ladder-like in quality." That is the description for a climb rated 5.5 - 5.6. One of the hallmarks of routes rated 5.4 or lower is that they are either very low angle or very straightforward to protect. This route is only a few degrees shy of vertical and has noted protection challenges. In my opinion, take it for what its worth, there is no such thing as a 5.4 trad line with a PG13 rating. A PG13 rating indicates either a higher degree of placing difficulty or an absence of suitable placements all together. Either way, that bumps it up to a 5.5. For accomplished climbers this means nothing, but realistically, accomplished climbers do not climb this route. If you've ever climbed the West Slabs Route on Mt Olympus (which has a consensus of 5.5) you would agree. That route is considerably lower angle arguably easier, and is subject to protection issues as well.
By zoso
16 hours ago

Thanks for the clarification. Could you define the difference between 5.0-5.4? Curious if there's any difference, if only semantically.
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