Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Reservoir Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Face T,TR 
Errors of Our Ways S 
Goodro's Chimney T 
I Ran To Afghanistan S 
Iraq in the Back Attack S 
Reservoir Ridge T 
Unknown Trad Line T 
War Clamor S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown Trad Line 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,450
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Jun 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Located between Errors of Our Ways and Iraq in the Back Attack. A nice crack heads straight up and shares anchors with Iraq in the Back Attack.

Descend from chains with one rope or walk off as for Reservoir Ridge.

Location 

Reservoir Ridge East Face

Protection 

Can be protected with a rack of nuts, a few small cams might be useful. Some runouts might be encountered depending on one's protection placing abilities.


Comments on Unknown Trad Line Add Comment
Show which comments
By Solace
Mar 26, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This is a fun route has been here for a half century or more. Its a great route for those fairly new to trad leads. That being said, placements are more challenging than the grade would suggest. There is a section mid route that doesn't have a lot of high quality placements but there are a few up higher if you press through. As for the rating, it has become very fashionable to under-rate climbs for some reason. This route has been mentioned in several older guidebooks as high as 5.6 but more commonly as 5.5. It appears the consensus is now 5.4 but by all rating standards that I am familiar with (I have been climbing for 30 years) this climb is a 5.5. A direct quote from "A Guide to the YDS System states, "Often vertical with very good and plentiful holds or slabs with easy-to-find edges. Holds are abundant for climbers of any height and almost ladder-like in quality." That is the description for a climb rated 5.5 - 5.6. One of the hallmarks of routes rated 5.4 or lower is that they are either very low angle or very straightforward to protect. This route is only a few degrees shy of vertical and has noted protection challenges. In my opinion, take it for what its worth, there is no such thing as a 5.4 trad line with a PG13 rating. A PG13 rating indicates either a higher degree of placing difficulty or an absence of suitable placements all together. Either way, that bumps it up to a 5.5. For accomplished climbers this means nothing, but realistically, accomplished climbers do not climb this route. If you've ever climbed the West Slabs Route on Mt Olympus (which has a consensus of 5.5) you would agree. That route is considerably lower angle arguably easier, and is subject to protection issues as well.
By zoso
Mar 26, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

Thanks for the clarification. Could you define the difference between 5.0-5.4? Curious if there's any difference, if only semantically.
By Solace
Mar 28, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Zoso, ( dig the Zeppelin reference BTW) your question is a good one and all I can give you is my opinion. When I was young, the world of moderates and even sub-moderates occupied a much larger percentage of the overall climbing scene. The company 5.10, chose the name in 1985 (the same year I started climbing) because 5.10 was serious business back then. When the scale was much smaller, the lower grades were taken more seriously and although I still think there are way too many split hairs over climbing grades, the lower grades dealt with 2 main principles. 1 difficulty, and 2 exposure. Take the Owen Spalding route on the Grand Teton (5.4) it's not much of a technical climb but the exposure is serious. Strangely unroped groups climb it all the time. In that case, that route is 5.4 for the exposure more than the difficulty. On the Teton nobody disputes the grade. But one has to ask when looking at the "Unknown Trad Line" - "Would I solo this?" Regrettably, I did once (when I was 25, it was a phase...) but 95% of people would say no. A much higher percentage of people climb the Owen Spalding unroped. So how could the grades be equal? My contention is that the objective (summit of a major western peak, vs. a 30 foot crag) should have nothing to do with it. The moves are not any different, and gravity Is no respecter of climbing grades. Both carry very similar consequences. A 5.0 carries that same risk should an unlikely fall occur but with very easy, low angle, unsustained climbing and very good protection. A 5.4 represents sustained steeper angles (never vertical) with adequate protection (never a risk of hitting the deck). Then there's the splitting of hairs Inbetween. Again, with sport routes, very little of this matters but most folks agree that placing gear gives the climber a perception of increased difficulty, usually by a grade or two. Given that this route attracts new(ish) trad leaders, it's something to consider.
By zoso
5 days ago
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

Led this today; took my little girl out for some fun.

If you don't clip any nearby bolts this route is full-on R. There was a 40' section that wouldn't take any gear at all--well maybe, just maybe a really bad #1 RP, of which I didn't bother.

That said, it's easy to clip a couple nearby bolts with a long runner, or just run it out as it's EZ.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!