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South Rock
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Unknown (South Face Left) T 
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 
Unknown (South Face Right) T 
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Unknown (South Face Middle) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: George Perkins on May 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Step up to the big roof. Place pro underneath (small cam) and turn the roof (1st crux) to horizontal handholds and the first bolt. The 2nd crux is right around the 2nd bolt in a thin slab section. Up higher, you'll pass a cool quartz vein and enter a right-facing dihedral with some tricky pro but easier climbing.

This climb is probably a little harder than the bolted climb to its right, and is almost as good. Like the nearby bolted climbs, it is well-protected, so it's a good climb for a someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.


Location 

This is the middle of the 3 bolted climbs on the south face of South Rock. It starts at the lower right end of the big roof.

This is "Unknown #5" in 'Taos Rock'


Protection 

3 bolts, plus some gear (nuts and cams from fingers to 2").
Rappel off the common anchor on the south side.



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By Hazen Goodyear
Nov 27, 2008

This is a really fun climb! The 15 feet from the top of the block to the last bolt is sweet. I climbed it without knowing the grade and felt that the bolted part was a little harder then 5.9+, but then again my shoes have split toes. I only took nuts with me and only placed one of them. There are lot of places to put gear but after the last bolt the climbing eaes up (solid lay backs) and I felt ok running it out.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I thought this was the best of the three "Unknown" mostly-bolted lines on this side of South Rock, though the other two are quite nice as well. Harder than the line to it's right, and only a little easier than the so-called "5.10+" to it's left.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Agree that this is the best of the three, mainly for its interesting movement and sequences. Liked being able to place gear where I wanted it and the fun exposure.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The left trending semi-detached column-like feature just left of the quarts dike/groove feature where the face steepens is awful hollow. Its easy not to use that feature but be careful. Other than that, a fun route.