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South Rock
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Agent Orange T 
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Alias The Martian T 
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Eagle's Nest (original) T 
Rainy Daze  S 
Surface Tension T 
Unknown (South Face Left) T 
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 
Unknown (South Face Right) T 
Yikes Dikes T 
Zig Zag Man T 

Unknown (South Face Left) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start by scrambling up a little to the right of the top of the big detached block. Protect with nuts in the back, a move that turns out easier than it looks as ledges appear gains the first bolt. Angle up and left, passing a couple small bulges to reach a big roof with a bolt right at the lip. Figure out how to reach the giant exit chickenhead, and cruise on up to the chains.

This climb has fun moves on good rock, and bolts in the right places. Don't get scared off by the TP reputation for runouts; this one's well protected, and soft for the grade.


Location 

This is the left of the 3 bolted lines on the south face of South Rock. It is the line that passes just to the right of the top of the big detached block, and pulls through bulge/roofs up high.

This is Unknown climb #4 in Taos Rock.

A common anchor for the 3 bolted climbs is reached by this route, and a single rope rappel gets you down.


Protection 

This climb has 3 bolts where you need them most, but you'll also want nuts, and a few cams (#0.4 camalot to #1 camalot). A couple of the placements are best if you use a long runner.



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By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The bolted anchor is off to climber's right a good 15 feet or so from the route. Its a good enough route that it could stand to have an anchor of its own.