Unknown Soldier 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, October 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Alan Doak on May 2, 2003 |
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Description The route starts directly below the left hole that is about 100' up, it's pretty far around the corner to the right from Figures. Head directly up and over a large flake to reach the first bolt. At the 2nd bolt, go up a little and right through the first crux. The fall is safe, but the bolt is not *right there*.
The second crux is a fun well-protected roof 4' from the belay. Continue up standard 5.10 Josh slab to the top. The topout was a bit grainy, hopefully this will improve with traffic.
Protection The first pitch has three bolts that are difficult to see from the ground, bring a couple medium size pieces and several slings for tieoffs. The 2nd pitch goes straight through the well protected roof, to characteristically spicy 5.10 slab to top out.
| Comments on Unknown Soldier |
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By Alan Doak
May 2, 2003
| Forgot to add that there is a chain anchor on the 1st pitch and six bolts on the second pitch before reaching a 2-bolt anchor up top (no chains). Descend via the rappel route at the summit of the formation (2nd rope not needed). |
By Vernon Stiefel
May 2, 2003
| This excellent route was established by Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville in 1990. Nice description of the "spicy" 5.10 slab finish! |
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