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Lizard Head Wall
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Unknown Slab 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: wish we knew
Season: any but the heat of summer
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jun 30, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Unknown

Description 

Climb the varnished, featured face with a piece or two of gear then clipping a bolt before you either a)move straight up and onto a ramp across the little chimney with a little runnout mantle to a stretch clip OR b)move up and left on good gear towards a big belay ledge. Then climb the face to the left of the blue collar crack for another 4 bolts on the cool slab including chickenheads and a thin dike with edges. (ok, not really edges but fingertip crimps in the varnish)


Location 

To the left of Squeeze My Lemon is a little alcove with a steep left wall and a mottled, highly featured face.


Protection 

5 draws (or is it 6) with a few being long and a nut or medium cam if you go left after the first bolt.



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By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2008

We asked around a bit and have never been able to find the FA's of this really fun climb. Its a lot cleaner now as we scrubbed and swept the entire face. Its just as classic as Mind Blow or Knobs to Gumbyland or, dare I say it... ok, not as good (at all) as Dorsal Fin due to positon, history and length. About the same difficulty before we cleaned it though - but more sustained I think. Kind of like Romance on the Rocks with more features. Probably doesn't get led much but if you wanted a warmup for the Dorsal Fin this would be key. Used to have the crappiest scary anchor that has been updated to a 2-bolt rap setup.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Led this one today. The rock is still pretty darn grainy, crumbly, and flaky in places. Enjoyable, nonetheless. The climbing is never too scary or difficult.

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Mar 22, 2010

This route has cleaned up nicely. I think its softer 5.10 because I led it bobble headed and out of balance due to a bad head cold. Take a medium sized cam and a runner for the moves before the last bolt.
Thanks to whomever put is all the new belays.

By steve santora
Oct 17, 2010

Climbed ZigZag Saurday...Last Good Fall Day.....Thats what I tell the wife....We rapped over to unknown slad and climbed that with red neck...Great climb, I thought the second pitch of the slab between the 3 and 4th bolt was hard 5-10 c/d if you didn't use the crack on the left. if you use the crack it is much easier 5-10-....I don't know if it is on or off....If you need it it is there...It has been awhile since I have visted Lizard Head. It now has quality climbs worth more regular visits..... PS Sneak by the camera on the raod to the storage vaults......

By zoso
Oct 18, 2010

Note the new approach described on the Lizard Head wall page. Much better with no camera dodging.