Unknown Slab 5.10
| 736 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | wish we knew |
| Season: | any but the heat of summer |
| Submitted By: | tenesmus on Jun 30, 2008 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Unknown
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Climb the varnished, featured face with a piece or two of gear then clipping a bolt before you either a)move straight up and onto a ramp across the little chimney with a little runnout mantle to a stretch clip OR b)move up and left on good gear towards a big belay ledge. Then climb the face to the left of the blue collar crack for another 4 bolts on the cool slab including chickenheads and a thin dike with edges. (ok, not really edges but fingertip crimps in the varnish)
Location To the left of Squeeze My Lemon is a little alcove with a steep left wall and a mottled, highly featured face.
Protection 5 draws (or is it 6) with a few being long and a nut or medium cam if you go left after the first bolt.
By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2008
| We asked around a bit and have never been able to find the FA's of this really fun climb. Its a lot cleaner now as we scrubbed and swept the entire face. Its just as classic as Mind Blow or Knobs to Gumbyland or, dare I say it... ok, not as good (at all) as Dorsal Fin due to positon, history and length. About the same difficulty before we cleaned it though - but more sustained I think. Kind of like Romance on the Rocks with more features. Probably doesn't get led much but if you wanted a warmup for the Dorsal Fin this would be key. Used to have the crappiest scary anchor that has been updated to a 2-bolt rap setup. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.10-
| Led this one today. The rock is still pretty darn grainy, crumbly, and flaky in places. Enjoyable, nonetheless. The climbing is never too scary or difficult. |
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Mar 22, 2010
| This route has cleaned up nicely. I think its softer 5.10 because I led it bobble headed and out of balance due to a bad head cold. Take a medium sized cam and a runner for the moves before the last bolt.
Thanks to whomever put is all the new belays. |
By steve santora
Oct 17, 2010
| Climbed ZigZag Saurday...Last Good Fall Day.....Thats what I tell the wife....We rapped over to unknown slad and climbed that with red neck...Great climb, I thought the second pitch of the slab between the 3 and 4th bolt was hard 5-10 c/d if you didn't use the crack on the left. if you use the crack it is much easier 5-10-....I don't know if it is on or off....If you need it it is there...It has been awhile since I have visted Lizard Head. It now has quality climbs worth more regular visits..... PS Sneak by the camera on the raod to the storage vaults...... |
By zoso
Oct 18, 2010
| Note the new approach described on the Lizard Head wall page. Much better with no camera dodging. |
|
RSS Feed
59 more...
