This is a good, long gully climb located left of the large "Highway to Hell" gully. It was likely climbed decades ago. We only saw 2 old rap slings en route, both below the icicle up high. It is rarely fat but seems to be present every winter as an excellent scrappy/thin tour. It has obvious high avalanche danger in bad snow conditions (beware huge slopes above even if snow is shallow in gully). We climbed a pitch of rock to the right of the obvious, hanging icicle in choss 2/3rds of the way up. No doubt the icicle will go for someone, but we backed off due to nasty choss.
I'm posting this climb to (1) encourage everyone to climb it, (2) thin out the crowds on the other heavily-hacked classics in Eureka, and (3) to hopefully get some more info on its history.
The route provides some very fun thin ice/easy mixed climbing and is a worthy addition to the area. There is NO reason to wait in line for the fat, blue cruisers. Get on it!
Take standard STH approach, but continue downstream to the base of the route before the entrance to the prominent "Highway to Hell" gully system.
Either finagle a descent via v-threads/trees/rock gear or walk over to the STH downclimb like we did. The walk-off would not be a good idea with any kind of avy hazard.
Standard early season rack w/ emphasis on thin ice pro: stubbies, rock gear, etc.
Looking up at P. 4. Nice belay!
A Julian Smith photo with the route drawn in.
|Comments on Unknown Scrappy Gully
|By justin dubois|
From: Estes Park
Nov 26, 2011
CT rumble king of the scrap!
|By Jamie Jones|
Mar 16, 2013
"...is a worthy addition to the area. There is NO reason to wait in line for the fat, blue cruisers." How depressing that Eureka has come down to this!! Pathetic.
From: SW Colorado
Nov 12, 2013
rating: WI4-5 M3-4
Climbed yesterday; there was more ice than in the photo. The "icicle" up top was a slightly beyond-vertical pillar. Definitely climbable - could go at WI5. I would recommend the route.