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Juniper Wall
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All the Right Moves T 
Amelie T 
Angelica T 
Constant Gardener, The T 
Deception Crack T 
Diagonal Crack T 
Fear of Flying T 
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Project T 
Stair Step Traverse T 
Unknown OW to Fingers T 
Unknown Roof T 

Unknown Roof 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ???
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 5, 2010

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Description 

This is another cool route that is not in the guidebook. I'm assuming its been done before though I'd love to claim the FA. It seemed a little too clean....

Begin in the same right-facing corner as the Unknown OW, but cut over right as soon as you can to another short crack. Keep traversing past this to a big left-facing corner. A couple stem moves lead to the big roof. Sack up and fire it pulling the lip into baggy fingers (crux). There are enough feet and face holds that it's not TOO desperate.

Once through the crux don't forget to smell the flowers (there's a big cluster at face level), and enjoy steep, fun jamming to the top. There's a weird OW-ish section guarding the top.

This might be 11- but I thought is was comparable with Renaissance. Who knows....

Location 

Far right. This is actually the analog crack system of Angelica, and you can see all the way through!

Protection 

Mostly fingers and hands.


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