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Mosaic Rock
Routes Sorted
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Baby Cakes 
Better Red Than Dead 
Bienvenidos 
Black Streak 
Chicken Heads 
Chicken Shit 
Clean Green Dream 
Cryin' in the Rain 
Dirty Black Nightmare 
Dirty Diagonal 
Dung Alley 
Five Years After 
Fried Chickens 
Holthouse to Hell 
Mama Jugs 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) 
Rite of Summer Dreams 
Seaman Girl 
Serpent Face 
Serpentine Crack 
Summer Dreams 
Suprise-Suprise 
Techtonics 
Techweenie 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) 
Walking Dread 

Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 57'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Spike Lynch
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 29, 2011
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Featuring more of the fun plates and holds typical of the left side of Mosaic Rock, this relatively new addition to the wall finds a good balance in difficulty between Mama Jugs to its left and Techtonics to its right.

Start from the same curving, small ledge that marks the start of Techtonics but head up a smallish finger crack feature to the high first bolt. While the distance is significant, the climbing isn't too difficult and good pro options exist in the finger crack. Awkward and thinner moves comprise the crux around the second bolt. Continue up and right to a left-facing flake feature where some gear placements can be found. Cruise the up the flake to the third bolt and, eventually, the anchor.


Location 

Between Mama Jugs and Techtonics. The bolts are visible. A single 60m rope gets you down.


Protection 

While it could be moderately well protected just using the three bolts on the route, a small to medium gear placements can be found between bolts. A two bolt anchor awaits at the top.



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By Paul Drakos
Aug 8, 2011

Three bolts only on this route. I would bring a small rack of supplemental gear. I have heard that Spike Lynch did the first ascent.

By Keith B. Ives
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

We went ahead and climbed up the chicken heads to the right of the anchors to create a second pitch. Go straight up to a ledge, pull the "Mama Jugs" to gain the summit.