Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Punchbowl
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bam S 
Blue Route 1 S 
Blue Route 2 S 
Corporate Greed S 
Drive By Shooting S 
Lugie Head S 
Momentary Lack of Resin S 
Smoke on the Water S 
Snipe Hunter S 
Spider Evictor S 
Super Barnacle S 
Turds in the Punchbowl S 
Unknown (Right Arch of Cave) S 

Unknown (Right Arch of Cave) 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 2,109
Submitted By: chris deulen on May 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Here's me making it to the anchors (barely--I mean...

Description 

This would probably fall under #3 for the Punchbowl area. Probably one of the best sport climbs in the universe. Crux is linking the moves on the roof and holding it together enough to pull around onto the face for more great technical climbing. I'm surprised this hasn't been sent yet, and the line is beautiful and inspiring in the midst of such an enchanted setting. Very intimidating as well. It may be harder than 13...


Location 

Upon entering The Punchbowl, skirt along the bottom rim to the right until it goes uphill again for 30 feet or so. Rather than continuing uphill, cut back towards the cave and the first few bolts are the start of this gorgeous line.


Protection 

9 bolts I believe. One could use a large cam between the 8th and 9th as it is pretty run out (about 15-20 feet I believe) though with 5.10 climbing. If you've made it that far, you shouldn't have much to worry about.



Photos of Unknown (Right Arch of Cave) Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin working up the Right Arch.
Kevin working up the Right Arch.
Comments on Unknown (Right Arch of Cave) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 10, 2009

According to the 2008 guide from Wolverine Publishing, this line has been sent, and it's 13+.

By mkclimb
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Wondering if anyone who has sent this route can give me some clarity?

While it is hella fun (that runout at the end is fairly easy climbing, but def. exciting), there are two routes on the right arch of the cave . . . .

According to the guidebook, the one that goes under the arch (where the picture here is taken) is a 5.13c bolted by Tommy Caldwell. It felt way closer to the low end of 13, though. There is another route that climbs on the vertical side of the arch that also looks hard - I believe that one was the open project, and the line pictured here is an older route.

Clarification? Anyone know?

By Sjong
Sep 2, 2013

I would agree with mkclimb. This is a great climb and should get more traffic but the grade is closer to 12d/13a. The climb to the right looks just as good but harder.

By jauernigg
From: edwards, co
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Yeah, the left route on right side of the cave is in the 12d/13a area, but the route just to the right of it is real hard down low, like double digit boulder problem hard, but the headwall is some of the best rock in the canyon!

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Feb 12, 2014

Anybody got a name?