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2nd Meat Wall
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Switch, The T 
T-Bones Tonight T 
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Top Sirloin T 
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 
Two Timer T 
Two Timer II T,TR 
Unknown long corner T 
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 

Unknown R of Tube Steaks 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo taken from Tube Steaks Tomorrow (taken by ar...

Description 

Just right of Tube Steaks Tomorrow is an eight-foot tall roof with a hand crack on its left margin. Jam and stem through the roof (being wary of slightly sandy rock) to a ledge above. Off the ledge, jam the hands and thin-hands corner to a slot, and ascend the face and thin, left-facing corner above until a short but tech-y traverse can be made to the anchors above Tube Steaks Tomorrow.


Location 

This route is immediately right of Tube Steaks Tomorrow. The climb starts by surmounting a low roof and works up through a varied left-facing corner/flake system above.


Protection 

A varied rack works nicely for this climb. Singles from #2 (blue) Metolius to #4 Camalot will get used, with triples in #1 and #2 Camalot sizes. As mentioned above, this climb shares a two-bolts anchor with Tube Steaks Tomorrow.



Comments on Unknown R of Tube Steaks Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Apr 3, 2011

as a lead clipping the anchors is very difficult as it's quite the reach from a tips jam, just TR this thing off of Tube steaks.

By Chris Archer
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

If you free the anchor clip this is solid 5.11, otherwise 5.10 A0.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 13, 2014

I personally wanted a #5 Camalot on this route for the (relatively) short, wide section. You can walk it a bit. If you anticipate this route to be a piece of cake, however, you probably won't need it.

I did not find the corner up higher to be "thin hands" but more like perfect golds.

I agree with Chris Archer on the top-out moves. Very awkward getting to the anchor and pretty hard.