This was a present surprise after trying to the route not knowing what to expect. It has great rock and movement that follow a great crack system until 10 feet from the top.
I started on the Left hand-side of the large ledge in a offwidth. Once on top of the ledge, move back into the wide corner with many features on the left side. Keep stemming up until you see two obvious zig-zag cracks. Follow the cracks to another small ledge. Traverse left on good holds to gain a hand crack. Make perfect jams to a few face moves past a bolt.
By Jesse Zacher Administrator From: Grand Junction, Co Feb 23, 2012
This really is an awesome route that should get some traffic. Anchors (courtesy of ASCA) have been replaced and make for an easy rope pull.
By Dave Meyers From: Golden, CO Feb 28, 2012 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a
Great pitch! One of the best of its grade at Unaweep (at least that I've done) and easier than it looks from the ground. Thanks for your work in the area, Jesse! Any attempt (or beta) on the pitches above the pillar? They look splitter as well.
By Ralph Swansen From: Denver CO Mar 13, 2013 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a
This climb is purely fantastic!
There is good gear inside the lower part of the chimney above the ledge. You have to get in the chimney. It will take a #4 deep left or a large finger-size on the right wall of the chimney in a vertical crack. Otherwise, you are soloing a 5.7 area with big fall potential.