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Unknown [Outer Gates] 

Unknown [Outer Gates] 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 19, 2003
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This is the route just right (uphill) from Simplexity. It is a long way to the first bolt and the crux is probably getting to that bolt, so take care.


7-9 bolts.

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 29, 2005

This is a pretty good quality climb that I've done a couple of times. Recently we watched a guy tape a couple of hiking(ski) poles together to stick clip the first bolt -- not a bad idea if you don't like doing the crux to get there.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2005

There are three routes between Simplexity and CCD that are not in Gillett's book. What are these routes?

By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Oct 16, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Between "Going to the Chapel" and CCD, I've only found 4 routes (L to R): "Altered Boy" (5.7), "Simplexity" (5.9+), this unknown route (5.9-), and "Jesus on a Stick" (5.10a). I wonder if what you thought was "Simplexity" was actually "Altered Boy"?

BTW, while I found the bulge above the huge ledge to be more challenging than getting to the first bolt (leading), my wife and son (both TR) found the bottom to be harder. I guess everything clicked for me at the bottom.

I diverged at the next-to-last bolt and joined J-o-a-S since there was somebody already on the Simplexity anchors. Made J-o-a-S a reasonable TR for me.

By Blitzo
Sep 15, 2006

Pretty good route. Getting to the first bolt is scary for the leader!