The first two pitches of this climb were really good. The rock was sound and the pro was bomber for the most part. We did this climb in two pitches and I would recommend doing so. The second pitch is all bolts and fixed gear except for some small stoppers so don't be afraid to use up the hardware on the dihedral if you combine one and two. The rope begins to get heavy as you reach the second set of chains but the belay stance is comfortable. The first belay would have been hanging and since we had three people we combined 1&2. There is another route that ascends the arete to the left and the anchors for it are just a few feet left. Our third hung out there as the last pitch was lead. The last pitch climbs the crack above the belay then zigs right and eventually back left but the drag is manageable with runners. Unfortunately there is a 15 ft. steep section of crappy rock about 60 feet up but the pro is good so we all pulled for all we were worth. If it did break the debris would miss your partners and the fall would be clean. The rest of the climbing is fun and the summit was well worth it.
As you drop down the left side you will see a nice looking tight corner with an obvious crack. Easy climbing on slightly funky rock gets you to it. Descend the NE face from poorly placed chain anchors. Use two ropes. We did two long raps and one short one but you might be able to reach the ground in two.
Small stoppers up to finger size, doubles on cams to yellow camalot and one blue. Mostly new bolts and old pins, chain anchors at the first and second belay. You might add some finger size cams if you want to really sew up the dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: Me on 1st pitch with the 2nd and 3rd pitches trave...
Just before busting out on the right side loose fl...
BETA PHOTO: Dave McRae on the 5.8 angling crack of pitch 4.
Solid stems and jams in a v-slot corner - good tim...
BETA PHOTO: The beautiful finger crack of the 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: Dave McRae on the bolted chossy hands section of p...
BETA PHOTO: Waling on those loose flakes like a hungry bear on...
BETA PHOTO: More of the 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: Oh Yeah! Pullin some of the last moves of the loos...
BETA PHOTO: Topo map of Stein's Pillar West Face
|Comments on West Face Route (5.10d or 5.6 A3)
By derek craig
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Despite the somewhat questionable rock on the third pitch it is actually really good! I really enjoyed the third pitch and I would give this route four stars at least--much better than doinking around on the aid pitch on the other side...
May 31, 2012
The first pitch dihedral is classic and the third pitch is super fun. Highly recommended! Bring some small stoppers for the second pitch.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Oct 21, 2013
This is a great line with some excellent, varied climbing culminating in an isolated and aesthetic summit - what more could you want? If in Utah, Stein's would be a heavily traveled classic tower. Instead, it sits in obscurity in the Ochocos of Central Oregon.