Unknown on the Right
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At the top of trail for Saint Peter's Dome, there are 2 climbs with bolts on them; this is a description of the right hand climb. I am not sure of what name the route has or who put it up, but this is a nice mixed, face climb consisting of delicate moves if you can get over what it takes to just get on the thing. From the nature of the bolts, my guess is that it was bolted on lead, so it is just a little on the sporty side. Anyway here is the beta.
Park at the overlook for Saint Peter's Dome and hike to the end of the trail; approximately 0.7 miles from the parking lot. You will ascend a series of switchbacks, but the trail is overall pretty mellow. Locate the obvious bolts on the rock face at the end of the trail; basically from the point at which you could go no higher on the trail.
Start from a difficult opening move to mount the top of a horizontal flake, making an inspiring move or 2 to get to a nice horizontal break from which you can clip the first bolt. There is no pro for the opening moves, so a spot would probably help inspire your confidence just a bit. Mantle up to reach the second horizontal break, and then wander about some to get to the second bolt. The climb ascends the face above to a set of Metolius rap-bolts (on the left) that are shared by 2 routes.
This climb is located at the top/end of the trail from the overlook parking area.
I think that there are about 4 bolts and a few pieces of smaller gear are nice to have as well; maybe think about bringing some longer quickdraws and runners for the wandering nature of the bolts. We used a 70m rope, but had much spare rope left-over; I think a 50m rope would be OK.
|Comments on Unknown on the Right
|By Drew Kelly|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
Is this climb located at a place called "The Sanctum"? It's an off-width for the first two thirds of the climb, right? Or is that not listed on this website?