Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 899 total · 5/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Aug 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

At the top of trail for Saint Peter's Dome, there are 2 climbs with bolts on them; this is a description of the right hand climb. I am not sure of what name the route has or who put it up, but this is a nice mixed, face climb consisting of delicate moves if you can get over what it takes to just get on the thing. From the nature of the bolts, my guess is that it was bolted on lead, so it is just a little on the sporty side. Anyway here is the beta.

Park at the overlook for Saint Peter's Dome and hike to the end of the trail; approximately 0.7 miles from the parking lot. You will ascend a series of switchbacks, but the trail is overall pretty mellow. Locate the obvious bolts on the rock face at the end of the trail; basically from the point at which you could go no higher on the trail.

Start from a difficult opening move to mount the top of a horizontal flake, making an inspiring move or 2 to get to a nice horizontal break from which you can clip the first bolt. There is no pro for the opening moves, so a spot would probably help inspire your confidence just a bit. Mantle up to reach the second horizontal break, and then wander about some to get to the second bolt. The climb ascends the face above to a set of Metolius rap-bolts (on the left) that are shared by 2 routes.

Location Suggest change

This climb is located at the top/end of the trail from the overlook parking area.

Protection Suggest change

I think that there are about 4 bolts and a few pieces of smaller gear are nice to have as well; maybe think about bringing some longer quickdraws and runners for the wandering nature of the bolts. We used a 70m rope, but had much spare rope left-over; I think a 50m rope would be OK.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading