Unknown on the Left  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Julian Smith on Aug 8, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

At the top of trail for Saint Peter's Dome, there are 2 climbs with bolts on them; this is a description of the left hand climb. I am not sure of what name the route has or who put it up, but this is a nice mixed, roof to face that is just a tad bit run-out in the middle of the climb. From the nature of the bolts, my guess is that it was bolted on lead, so it is just a little on the sporty side. Anyway here is the beta.

Park at the overlook for Saint Peter's Dome and hike to the end of the trail; approximately 0.7 miles from the parking lot. You will ascend a series of switchbacks, but the trail is overall pretty mellow. Locate the obvious bolts on the rock face at the end of the trail; basically from the point at which you could go no higher on the trail.

Start climbing a left-facing dihedral that is bisected by a small roof, which then changes to a short, right-facing dihedral. Manage to somehow get situated on a small ledge to your right and then surmount the spicy face above on nice holds, but with sparsely placed bolts in order to reach a set of Metolius rap-bolts. These rap-bolts are also shared by the route to the right. This is a very nice and challenging lead.

Location 

This climb is located at the top/end of the trail from the overlook parking area.

Protection 

I think that there are about 3 bolts and a few pieces of hand-sized and smaller gear are nice to have as well; maybe think about bringing some longer quickdraws and runners for the wandering nature of the bolts. We used a 70m rope, but had much spare rope left-over; I think a 50m rope would be OK.