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Helen's Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Nice Top Rope TR 
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 
Borderline Boulevard  T 
Brave Cowboy T 
Buffalo Soldier T,S 
Buffalo Tears T 
Electric Koolaid Acid Test  T 
Face Value T 
Fool's Gold T,S 
Fractured Fairytales S 
Gettin' the Groove S 
On the Bus T 
Pebble Beach T,TR 
Spree T,S 
Sticks 'n' Stones T 
Unknown on South Face T 

Unknown on South Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 248
Submitted By: rob bauer on Aug 11, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Lin went straight up "harder than 5.8." ...

Description 

Not my route, but to clarify the Hubbel guide, (his picture is much better than the topo). Find the ledge 5 minute walk up around right from the Helen's Dome area. Start 5' left of tree, traversing up right (PG) past the 2 bolts and then zig back and up to a so-so ledge for a gear anchor. Our 2nd pitch was short and followed the right-diagonaling crack up to the anchors on another climb at the overlap. (Sticks & Stones; lots of new bolts.) 165' ropes should reach the overlap given the age of the climb, but we weren't sure. Also, we could have traversed right to the heavily bolted line and up to the same anchors, but we were keeping in style with the original. We then sacked the trad ethos and followed the bolts for another 162' pitch. We rap'd with 2 ropes.

Location 

Helen's Dome South Face. On a ledge with a tree, Brave Cowboy (water-streak) is maybe 12 feet left of the tree. Unknown starts about 5 feet left of the tree.

Protection 

2 bolts and a light rack to maybe 3".
We had a 165' and broke it into 2 pitches. Hubbel's topo says 1 to a belay in the 3" horizontal at the overlap.


Photos of Unknown on South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down our P2.  (Probably could've had a few nuts if I'd worked it.)
BETA PHOTO: Looking down our P2. (Probably could've had a few...

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