Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Helen's Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Nice Top Rope 
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) 
Beam Me Up, Scotty 
Borderline Boulevard  
Brave Cowboy 
Buffalo Soldier 
Buffalo Tears 
Electric Koolaid Acid Test  
Face Value 
Fool's Gold 
Fractured Fairytales 
On the Bus 
Pebble Beach 
Spree 
Sticks 'n' Stones 
Unknown on South Face 

Unknown on South Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: rob bauer on Aug 11, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Lin went straight up "harder than 5.8." I continue...

Description 

Not my route, but to clarify the Hubbel guide, (his picture is much better than the topo). Find the ledge 5 minute walk up around right from the Helen's Dome area. Start 5' left of tree, traversing up right (PG) past the 2 bolts and then zig back and up to a so-so ledge for a gear anchor. Our 2nd pitch was short and followed the right-diagonaling crack up to the anchors on another climb at the overlap. (Sticks & Stones; lots of new bolts.) 165' ropes should reach the overlap given the age of the climb, but we weren't sure. Also, we could have traversed right to the heavily bolted line and up to the same anchors, but we were keeping in style with the original. We then sacked the trad ethos and followed the bolts for another 162' pitch. We rap'd with 2 ropes.


Location 

Helen's Dome South Face. On a ledge with a tree, Brave Cowboy (water-streak) is maybe 12 feet left of the tree. Unknown starts about 5 feet left of the tree.


Protection 

2 bolts and a light rack to maybe 3".
We had a 165' and broke it into 2 pitches. Hubbel's topo says 1 to a belay in the 3" horizontal at the overlap.



Photos of Unknown on South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down our P2.  (Probably could've had a few nuts if I'd worked it.)
BETA PHOTO: Looking down our P2. (Probably could've had a few...
Comments on Unknown on South Face Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -