Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,921 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Scramble up to a big ledge then jam the clean hands corner that leads to a very short wide section. Pull the bulge(crux) above the wide on cupped hands and continue on cups into another OW slot with hands in the back and edges out left to the anchor. My 70 got me down no problem.

[editor's note - the following was originally posted by Tom T under the route name 'polaris']

Climb a short squeeze chimney to a large sandy ledge. After about 20 feet of perfect wide hands in a clean corner it's time to get busy. Grunt, cuss, and struggle your way through a slightly overhanging offwidth and deposit yourself into a tight squeeze chimney. This chimney provides an excellent no-hands rest and protects with a hand crack that is just within reach. Follow the obvious crack to two solid drilled angles that had brand new [yellow] slings in March 2006.

Location Suggest change

From the top of the approach trail head left. The route is approximately 100 feet left of Desert Shield.
Look for a 30 foot tall slab that leads up to an obvious right facing corner.

Protection Suggest change

Mostly #2 and 3 Camalots with a couple of big pieces thrown in.

[Tom T's recommendation is Camelots: 2-#1's, 2-#2's, 4-#3's, 4-#4's (old or new, they both fit in various places)and a couple random pieces for the start. A 60m rope will barely get you to the ground with some very tame down-climbing. A stopper knot in the "belay" side would be prudent.]

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