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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn 
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Zot Face, The 

Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 10, 2006
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On the fun and easy climbing up to the tree. The r...
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  • Description 

    Just left of the main Darkness 'til Dawn dihedral is a very obvious groove that continues past a small tree. This route is not in the guide, but I've eyed it more than once over the years. We finally climbed it, thinking it might be 10 or so, but since the gear looked to be good, so why not have a go? It turns out it's 9- or so with very good gear and very good climbing. What looks like the crux, moving left where DtD starts its real climbing, turns out to be easy. The actual crux is above the tree in the green corner. The corner eventually blanks out. Move up and right to get some decent holds. From here, the best choice is to continue right into upper DtD. We chose to move left around the arete into a left-facing corner and up to a questionable anchor. Chuck tried to continue up the corner to the DtD anchors, but it got hard, and he had little gear, so we ended up backing up the anchor in the corner and rapping from there. This anchor seems to exist for those who rap from the top of Grandmother's Challenge with a single rope.

    Route details: start as for Darkness 'til Dawn or just left and climb up to where DtD enters the crack system on the right wall. Instead, move right and layback up to gain the groove. Moderate climbing leads to a small tree. You could move left here into the left facing corner, but instead, continue up the green corner above. Where it starts to blank out, make a move up and right to get some decent hand holds. Either move right to DtD or stem left to the arete and then left around the corner and up to the anchor.


    Location 

    This is in the same location as Darkness 'til Dawn.


    Protection 

    Standard rack to #2/gold Camalot. If you continue to the Darkness 'til Dawn anchors, you'll need a 70m or double ropes to get down, or will need to downclimb a bit. If you finish to the left, be prepared to back up the fixed anchor.



    Photos of Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn Slideshow Add Photo
    Starting the real climbing--moving left and up into the groove. Darkness 'til Dawn moves right from here to the fist crack on the right wall. This and other photos the same day by Luke Clarke.
    Starting the real climbing--moving left and up int...
    Above what we thought would be the crux.
    Above what we thought would be the crux.
    Laybacking into the upper groove.
    Laybacking into the upper groove.
    Moving up and right where the green corner blanks out. From here you can continue right and finish on Darkness 'til Dawn or stem left and move left around the corner and then up to an anchor.
    Moving up and right where the green corner blanks ...
    Comments on Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 10, 2006

    Does anyone know the name and history of this route just left of Darkness 'til Dawn?

    By logan johnson
    From: West Copper, Co
    Mar 11, 2006

    I think this may be the original start to Green Slab, Rossiter's text is somewhat ambiguous as to which 5.8 dihedral you start with.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 12, 2006

    I don't think this is what Rossiter is describing as the original Green slab. For both the original and Green Slab direct, he says "Climb a steep slab." The Erickson Rocky Height guide says this of the regular Green Slab: "...begins in the same spot [as the direct] but traverses right before the roof...." In any case neither the variation described here or the original Green Slab to the left gets any traffic. This variation should get a lot more traffic. The original Green Slab perhaps not.

    By shaftoe
    Sep 7, 2011

    This variation is wicked fun....
    I liked it almost more than DtD.
    Staying in the dihedral at the top is run out and much harder than any part of DtD, but it is easily avoided by finishing on DtD.