A fair two-pitch bolted line that is worth doing if you are in the area.
Pitch 1 (5.10-, 150'): Climb up bolts along the arÍte. When the bolts leave the arÍte step right, plug in an optional cam, and make a 10-move on to a dike. Continue along bolts passing more dikes and a tree. Belay at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10, 110'): Run it out from the anchor on easy ground to a series of bolts leading up 5.9-5.10 slab. You will arrive at a ledge with a diagonal crack protected by more bolts. Follow the crack up for three bolts, then step left on to harder slab (5.10) ending at a move around a blunt arÍte and some crumbly rock. Belay at a two bolt anchor. Contrived but with some decent slab moves.
Descent: Rappel the route.
A topo for this route can be downloaded from
Far left side of the Southwest face of Muttonhead. Starts at the arÍte just right of Seeing is Believing.
Quickdraws, a few cams ranging from .4" to 2".
Getting into the last little bit of hard slab, top...
Mark on the first pitch, above all the dikes.
Second pitch is slabtastic!
Ouch, my fingers.
BETA PHOTO: P1. Like the name "Lesbian Encounters" suggested, ...
|By Tim Hadfield|
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This was definitely solid 5.10 climbing, and a real hoot. We were calling it "Lesbian Encounter", because you climb through at least three sweet intruding dikes. We ended up climbing on to the top of the formation for a fairly simple hike back to the packs.