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The Muttonhead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Full Metal Hootgat T 
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 
Mystery of the Desert T 
Oops I sharted T 
Seeing is Believing T 
Steep Short Green Streak S 
Tiny But Exciting S 
Tour Buses Welcome S 
Unknown (L side of SW face) S 
Unknown (R side of SW face) S 
unknown (se arete) S 

Unknown (L side of SW face) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 260'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: Geir on Nov 7, 2010

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Getting into the last little bit of hard slab, top...


A fair two-pitch bolted line that is worth doing if you are in the area.

Pitch 1 (5.10-, 150'): Climb up bolts along the arête. When the bolts leave the arête step right, plug in an optional cam, and make a 10-move on to a dike. Continue along bolts passing more dikes and a tree. Belay at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10, 110'): Run it out from the anchor on easy ground to a series of bolts leading up 5.9-5.10 slab. You will arrive at a ledge with a diagonal crack protected by more bolts. Follow the crack up for three bolts, then step left on to harder slab (5.10) ending at a move around a blunt arête and some crumbly rock. Belay at a two bolt anchor. Contrived but with some decent slab moves.

Descent: Rappel the route.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from


Far left side of the Southwest face of Muttonhead. Starts at the arête just right of Seeing is Believing.


Quickdraws, a few cams ranging from .4" to 2".

Photos of Unknown (L side of SW face) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ouch, my fingers.
Ouch, my fingers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark on the first pitch, above all the dikes.
Mark on the first pitch, above all the dikes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch is slabtastic!
Second pitch is slabtastic!
Rock Climbing Photo: P1. Like the name "Lesbian Encounters" s...
BETA PHOTO: P1. Like the name "Lesbian Encounters" s...

Comments on Unknown (L side of SW face) Add Comment
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By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This was definitely solid 5.10 climbing, and a real hoot. We were calling it "Lesbian Encounter", because you climb through at least three sweet intruding dikes. We ended up climbing on to the top of the formation for a fairly simple hike back to the packs.

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