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End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All T 
Cap'm Pissgums T 
Days of Future Passed T 
Endgame T 
Jimmywacky T,S 
Magnus Veritas T,S 
Poetry in Motion T 
Son of Gums T 
Uncarved Block T 
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 
Welcome to the Machine T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown (L of Endgame) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 580', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers and ?
Season: Fall
Page Views: 1,868
Submitted By: Geir on Apr 3, 2009

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A bolt protected climb on the west face of End Pinnacle. Fun climbing on great features, although a number glued holds and its proximity to Poetry in Motion detract from the experience.


Location 

Currently the leftmost climb on the west face of End Pinnacle. Start on Endgame, bearing sharply left at the 10th bolt (use of long runners here will help reduce rope drag). From here, just follow the topo to the top. Note that in the beginning of pitch 4, head sharply left to stay on the route. Older bolts with leeper hangers lead upward on Poetry in Motion and very runout climbing above.


Protection 

All bolts except a small cam or stopper can be placed after the roof on pitch 3 for additional protection.



Comments on Unknown (L of Endgame) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2013
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Sep 24, 2009

The climbing is high quality and fun, but yes, it is too bad that it interferes with an established route.

By roxclamantis
Oct 28, 2010

Great route, maybe better than End Game, and a lot more climbing per meter. Ratings, as shown on another topo site, are a total sandbag. I suggest following:
P1 - 5.10-
P2 - 5.11a
P3 - 5.11b (moving up to and through overhang)
P4 - 5.10-
P5 - 5.11b/c (contrived)

Although P3 probably has no single move harder than solid 5.10, the continuously strenuous nature makes this a solid 5.11 lead. The comments say 'all bolts' but every time I've done it, including with the FA'ist, we've placed a small nut or cam above the bolt in the overhang. If you don't, and pump out making the next clip, you'll take a screamer.

Pitch 5 is a travesty and should be avoided entirely.

Both this and End Game are well worth climbing, but there is no question that Poetry in Motion was seriously and permanently degraded in the process. You can't have it both ways.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 29, 2010

Thanks for the feedback on Toofast's Topo. I was surprised to hear that you felt the ratings were sandbagged- normally I am told the opposite. I'm interested in hearing if others found the ratings to be too low. If so I am happy to go with the consensus.

I will check out that gear placement you mentioned and add a note to the description.

:) geir

By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Oct 30, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Geir,
Dave Jones and I did the route the day before I ran into you in the Stronghold. I pretty much agree with the ratings on your topo with two exceptions. I felt like the first pitch was 5.10b/c (not much of a disagreement) and the last pitch with the contrived overhang seemed way harder than 5.11a. I didn't find the secret handhold you mentioned so maybe it's easier; but I couldn't climb it free. I have to admit that I was so blown by the time I got to that move, that it's hard for me to rate it with any accuracy. All and all this is a really fun route and it would be a classic if it didn't cross other lines and have such a contrived finish (sorry Scott.) Sill, this climb has WAY more climbing on it than "End Game." If Scott didn't name it, I'd suggest calling it the "The spice is right" (but that's up to Scott.) I heard a rumor that its called "Be All End All." Hey Scott...what did you name it?
John

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2010

thanks john! i will adjust the topo according to your comments and any other ones that are posted here.

By RyanJames
Oct 31, 2011

This is an amazing rock climb that should not be passed up if you are in the area. Every pitch was fun and exciting! The nut placement at the crux of pitch 3 is definitely not needed as the bolt below is, after placing a quickdraw on the nut, only about 6 inches below it. It's also the point in the climb when you're pulling over the roof, so it's not the best place to fiddle with a piece of gear. Skipping the nut placement didn't make it feel run-out, at all.

Again, this climb is amazing!

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks for the route Scott and thanks for the topo Geir! This route is not 'Be All End All'. As far as I know this route has yet to be named.

In general everyone seems to have approximately the same opinion on the grade. My personal breakdown is:
P1: 5.10c
P2: 5.10d
P3: 5.11a
P4: 5.10a
P5: 5.10d (Height dependent?)

The route is 100% sport in my opinion and I am not a bold climber. A few pieces could potentially be placed between bolts but on much milder terrain.

The climbing on this route is classic, better than Endgame, but as others have noted there is glue and it runs extremely close to 'Poetry In Motion'. The bolts seemed to be placed in such a way as to minimize overlap, which caused me to occasionally feel as though they were off the natural line; this was especially true at the end of P2 and P3. I agree that the final pitch is a bit contrived but I enjoyed it -- it adds a final crux rather than ascending the easiest line.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 29, 2012

I have climbed Poetry in Motion and can say for certain this climb is way too close to Poetry in Motion, as are parts of all the remaining bolted lines on this wall. Try climbing it some time and you'll see.

I don't mind dispersed bolted lines here and there in the Stronghold, but I do mind ones that completely change the previously existing trad lines here.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 24, 2012

Topo updated with consensus grades for the pitches. Thanks everyone!

By Caitlin Mac
From: Tempe
Mar 17, 2013

After pitch 4, we added another unprotected traverse pitch out to the right (~50 feet, dont fall!), and then finished with an amazing and hard sport face climb.

Unprotected Traverse pitch right (on top of 4th pitch), and Tyler following up fun alternate finish.
Unprotected Traverse pitch right (on top of 4th pitch), and Tyler following up fun alternate finish.

By Caitlin Mac
From: Tempe
Mar 17, 2013

By the way, the photo above was taken during the Fall, not during the Spring seasonal closures! (I just had not been on MP for awhile..)