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Scarface
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Unknown (just right of Spam) T 
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Unknown (just right of Spam) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 860
Submitted By: Karl K on Jun 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Throw that rope!

Description 

Offset splitter. Crux is getting out the tiny overhang at the bottom into the crack proper.

Location 

Obvious offset splitter just right (15') of Spam

Protection 

Usual Indian Creek monster (splitter is mostly 1.5-2s) Bolt anchor at top (no chains - may need webbing)


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Comments on Unknown (just right of Spam) Add Comment
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By 303scott
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Saw this next to Spam and decided to do it instead. I think the book said it was .10. While it was short, it was also quite burly. .75 camalots out of the roof for 8 feet and then tight 1's to one tight 2 camalot at the very top. 11 or 11- is likely more appropriate. Also, there's still a bit of climbing after the obvious splitter, so bring an extra 1 and 2 for the upper section.
By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This thing is at least as hard as Scarface and maybe slightly harder. The only difference is that the perfect hands don't go on for 40 feet.
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2014

one of my favorite routes i did all weekend. highly recommend